I am thinking of replacing the original shower screen on my Sage Dual Boiler for one from IMS. Now, when I had my old Gaggia Classic, I replaced the original shower screen with one from IMS as well as a couple of new baskets. Now I honestly can't say whether or not they made a difference taste wise especially, as I do not have the most sensative tastebuds. So that is not the reason I would change it. However, I have noticed with the Sage that for some reason when making an espresso using a double portafilter, the stream invariably favours the right hand spout, in that the flow from that is usually greater than the left side. I have checked the machine is level, I make sure after WDTing I tap it level then use a Normcore type distribution thingy to ensure it is even and then tamp. I try really hard to make sure when I tamp I do it straight and even. I have even made sure I flush through and thoroughly clean the grouphead after every use and take out the shower screen and clean it once a month. So, after all that could it be the original shower screen and so would I benefit from buying an IMS one? At £17.90 including shipping admittedly it won't break the bank, but 1 penny or 100 pounds I will only buy something if I think it will be worth it. Your advise as always is appreciated.

I’m not convinced it’s the shower screen. You’ll be putting in back in randomly each time you clean it. I’d try tamping 180deg from normal for a bit and see if that changes it, I’d also go for a new gasket before the screen.

@"Pompeyexile"#p59762 - follow your routine as usual. Then, rotate the basket inside the PF 180 degrees. If all of a sudden it starts favouring the left hand side, then you know it’s not the shower screen, or a gasket - it’s just your technique. If it doesn’t change, the. You can start rolling out other things. It could even be the spouts on your PF. I doubt it’s the shower screen.

Does the double spout screw onto the portafilter or is it one moulded piece? Could you spin the spout 180degrees and see if it is the cause?

Looking at the spout there is a definite line so I assume it is a screw on. I will try rotating the basket first and then if no improvement, the spout. I will even buy a new gasket. Just out of interest, if it works why then do people replace their shower screens with one from IMS if the original is not damaged? Is it for the same reason as baskets, in that the holes are better machined more regular, giving a more even spread of the liquid passing through? Thanks again for your advice. This is why this forum is the best, because even idiots like me who ask the the stupidest questions are tolerated.

@"Pompeyexile"#p59798 - I found the IMS shower screen for E61 worked well as it was integral (rather than a mesh), it was easier to clean and it allows less fines to go back to the group - i.e.: easier to keep it clean. I never noticed a taste improvement or better . For a Sage Dual Boiler, I don't think there's much point, as you can keep the machine nice and clean because it allows you to backflush as many times as you want without having to disassemble the cam lever and relube every time. Incidentally, the IMS Sage DB shower screen is the same for the Lelit Elizabeth. I did give it a go 3 years ago, and actually found that it presented no benefit what so ever. In fact, I think Lelit's version is a lot nicer and fitted better - for the Elizabeth at least.

Honestly, if one is chasing time on a drag strip then you can justify polishing inlet manifolds etc as you can quantify that fraction of a second you improve. With my old, smoke and alcohol trashed taste buds I am not sure I can justify a whole lot. I haven't smoked for over ten years.

For me personally I think there is better water distribution the IMS screen. For a lot of people myself included the coatingg IMS uses makes it really easy to just wipe off grounds. One of these days I plan on making a post I just did a comparison on the stock ACS screen versus IMS. And there is a clear visual difference the stock screen tends to almost look like an espresso extraction where it all releases conically and then into a single line. And on the IMS the droplets are more evident. This would lead me to believe there's better water distribution. But I couldn't tell you that there is a taste improvement. There may be I just haven't done enough side by side testing To me the IMS screens are cheap enough that it's worth doing the experiment

> @"Adhod"#p59802 This would lead me to believe there’s better water distribution. But I couldn’t tell you that there is a taste improvement. Then, technically, the "better" water distribution might be just "different", where both give you the same results?

For me a reason to buy a new shower screen is either * looking good - my old was scratched * easier to clean (important for E61) for the problem you are having, it could be of unbalanced weight. I had some kind of same problem (a sprout on the left always had earlier stream), turned out that I used to put my hand on one side of machine. that was enough to create an uneven stream.

On my prior Lelit E, I initially swapped the stock screen out for an IMS. And found (if my memory serves me correctly) that I was not always getting shots to my liking; the higher flow IMS screen affected my consistency. Also I recall that the IMS did not quite fit as well as the stock screen. So I ended up putting the stock screen back in. And as I used a puck screen, my group head was always clean. This may or may not be the case with the Sage. I initially had a Breville DuoPro, which I heavily modded with a brass water distribution plate, an IMS screen, a dimmer switch (for pressure/flow control), custom fit IMS baskets and a custom cut bottomless PTF, all with the help of a machinest I knew. All of this combined with good technique made a significant difference in taste.

IMS shower Screen worth getting?

JHCCoffee

Pompeyexile but does the same thing

Its definitely expensive, as is The Force.

But it does more than just produce the same tamp force, as does the Normcore. It has a flange above the tamper base that is wider than the base. You place the base on top of your puck. When you press down on the handle the flange and base begin to descend, if the flange is initially above the rim of the basket. As soon as the flange touches the rim, the base continues to descend levelly (exactly parallel to the flange and the rim. Force is regulated by your selection of spring. If you tend to overfill the basket, you can use one of their thinner bases, so that the flange hits the rim sooner. They have lots of choice and so I have several bases. But that’s just me. You can certainly manage with one.

The end result is a consistently level tamp and a tamp that with grounds that are consistently compressed, from shot to shot. One variable dealt with and 20 to go (or 100 if you own a Decent :) )

JonWoo187

I will chime in here as I’ve had a screen issue for some time. The Silvia Pro screen is basically an OEM in which was modified with a countersunk center to allow the screw to sit more flush. Problem is the factory mod (likely a simple press) caused the center to be off-center and the screen never would sit perfectly flush against the dispersion disc. I then bought a modified screen from the PID Silvia site and it was formed a bit better, but still not perfectly centered/formed. Problem is no matter how it was installed, spinning the jetbreaker, changing the screw tightness, etc. there would still be channeling in the same spot due to that improper deformation. I knew it wasn’t due to grind quality, distribution, dose, etc. as no changes improved that channeling.
I then decided to get the stainless dispersion disc from Pantechnicon as it has a perfectly machined design compared to the OEM brass type which tends to have a rolled over/flattened edge. Thought that might allow the screen to sit more flush, but still had channeling in the same spot. Had been looking at aftermarket screens for some time and never spotted one that looked to be perfectly designed until one popped up made by IMS for the Rancilio RS1 group design. Took note of the measurements provided and decided to give it a try. That screen is perfectly formed and allows the screw to perfectly center when tightening and the long lasting annoying issue with channeling instantly disappeared. Granted the flow rate is a bit different, but comparing it to the OEM screen I’m 100% convinced it’s primarily due to how well the new screen fits due to the countersunk hole design. In the past I’d never bother with aftermarket parts much and think the OEM screen function itself is just fine, but Rancilio really needs to work on modifying a screen in a better manner. The rest of the machine is top notch, but that one simple mod lets it down big time. So, yes in some instances a screen can make a huge difference when nothing else works.
*1st pic is OEM ‘modified’ screen as it came with the SP
*2nd pic is comparing the PID Silvia site modified OEM screen compared to the aftermarket

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