dutchy101 It’s not at a point that I think I need to worry, but was wondering if this is normal?

Only if you have overtightened it…these “compression close” knobs as I call them are very, very good if you use them right, most people don’t and instead of ending up lasting 10-15 years they last 3 years. Much longer than the “no compression” type.

I have posted this before for the Elizabeth, but I can’t find it, so I will post in again, as this knowledge has been forgotten over the years. In the olden days people always stood a milk jug under the steam wand. This was not because they would leak, although sometimes they did…but for another reason.

When you close the wand, do it very, very lightly…1 finger will do, until it “just” stops. Shortly after, the water/steam will start to drip out again. This is because things have contracted slightly as it cools, and the valve becomes slightly open. You are then meant to close the valve a little more, very, very lightly, until it just stops….it won’t start leaking again. Do it this way and that Teflon pad seal will last 10-15 years.

Instead, people think ah I didn’t close it enough and close it harder the first time, it might still leak and the cycle repeats, the seat deforms and you need a new valve…or the cup holding the seal splits.

I have only closed it as tight as to stop the hissing but this has definitely required a tighter close than before since yesterday

Java_avaJ

Instead of ramming 18g into a stock basket not designed for 18g why not grind finer and use 14 or 16g or whatever the basket takes?

Your extraction will be more efficient and probably better.

    Rob1 the stock double basket is designed for 18g however I actually find it a little light with my beans and there’s a lot of headroom so end up with quite wet and messy pucks. Not sure if it is the headroom that’s causing that but just a guess.

    ACS Minima Help!

    New minima was delivered and setup. Following boiler filling instructions. After pump ran for 20 seconds, I notice the water wasn’t being pulled from the reservoir. I turn it off and tried again with no effect. Googled and used 1st coffee technique of pushing water into pump with turkey baster. Now the issue occurs, every time the machine powers on, it trips the breaker in the house. Googled everything and cannot figure this out. Machine has been on for total of 3 minutes off and on so don’t have any idea what’s happening. Any ideas ?

    GB

      Gtbarringer one of the first things to do is not go to the turkey baster with a vibration pump, normally that doesn’t help them prime. If the pump for whatever reason is not drawing up water and the tube is actually disconnected from the pump a turkey baster will fill the inside of the machine with water, and until it dries out you might get it tripping the breakers. Or water might have dripped down into the bottom of where the water tank is and perhaps splashed into the machine.

      The best move to be would let it dry out because obviously it wasn’t tripping the breaker before the turkey baster, and then remove the top and have a look and see if there’s anything obvious as to why the pump may not be drawing in water. If you take some photos you can put them up on the forum here so that we can see what is going on.

      You may even have to remove the case if we can’t see anything obvious.

      You should definitely also send ACS an email describing the problem that you have had when first trying to use the machine, that is very important.

      P.S check under the machine with your hand to feel whether it is wet which might indicate that water has got inside the machine perhaps from the turkey break baster or some other method.

      Thanks for the reply Dave. The video was even demonstrating this With a minima…. Learned a lesson to come here first.

      Anything specific to be looking for inside the case? There was a bit of water under the machine.

      Update. Vibe pump started to work after cycling it for 10 second intervals. Now the tripping problem has been diagnosed to a leak somewhere. I know the leak is causing the issue, becusss I can dry out the machine then when I flip the machine on the pump runs for 10 seconds the water begins to run out of the front of the machine. Narrow it down to somewhere around the pump, but don’t want to go farther than taking off the cover. Extremely frustrating. I will email ACS for help as well.

        Gtbarringer The leak can be from a number of sources….and would indicate different problems…all solvable. It’s also extremely important you take the top off the machine 4 screws and take some good photos.

        Here are a list of possible problems, some solved in seconds. I’ll highlight the most likely ones.

        • Connector has fallen off autofill probe during transit
        • Split tube feeding pump
        • loose connection after pump
        • expansion valve tube split
        • Loose connection on boiler

        Thanks for the gents. I took another stab at it this morning and narrowed down the leak to under the vibe pump. Had to take off the Gicar controller to access. Any suggestions now? Can you rebuilt a vibe pump or tight some fittings?

          Gtbarringer OK, well the connectors in black on the left are right in front of anything I would like to see, which is the connector on the high piressure side of the vibe pump.

          I would still….really like to see a photo of the top of the machine and one pulled back a bit of the sides, and back…if you can.

          P.S. A pool of water under the pump area, doesn’t necessarily mean it’s come from the pump!

            Gtbarringer I can’t see evidence of water anywhere else? In the photo I see a screw, bottom right, hopefully it is the Gicar mounting screw, or perhaps an extra, in any case fish it out.

            I have never known a pump case split or leak…but I am wondering if it could be coming from the white push on connector? My conclusion is because, you said it was tripping out, which in the case of a leak like that, I can’t see anything that would trip it…unless it was spraying out. If it was coming from above, then sure..but I checked the other photos and I can’t see anything obvious above.

            Yiou are of course dismantled to the point where a vibration pump change is relatively easy and the way you have stripped it down shows you will easily be able to do that change…it’s just I’ve never heard of such a problem….so have a look at that white connector on the right and for any evidence of water coming from above.

            I’m not saying it’s impossible for a pump not to leak from the case….just in over 18 years I’ve never seen it.

            DavecUK

            Hi Dave thanks so much for the help. Spare screw was me taking off the pump. Update, I let all the connections dry out and reassembled with the vibration pump connector above the water line. Turn the machine on and it works now. Boilers are filled and coming up to temp with no issues. However there is still a small drip leak from inlet of vibration pump. So I guess this is once in 18 year(just my luck)? Haha Will see how ACS wants to resolve the solution but I can manage a drip for now.

              BB have the Marax pump in stock. Alot more expensive though!

                Gtbarringer If it’s from the inlet…I wonder if that white push on cup is split, or if it’s just loose…pleased to hear it’s not from the pump body…I didn’t think it would be.

                MediumRoastSteam unrelated to the problem - but is that pump you suggest quieter than the original one?

                Nah that’s an Ulka pump, the Lelit pump will be very quiet…I still have that project to do on my Minima.

                Grif BB have the Marax pump in stock. Alot more expensive though!

                It’s why I asked Lelit to send me a couple, some time ago…I forgot to ask them to pop a pump in the parcel coming with the revised MaraX software…ah well. I suppose it goes at a premium because it was specially developed for lelit.