Thought I would paste this here as it will probably crop up again….

If the faulty capacitor is the same as the other ones I did then you need one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QXZKZJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s a bag of 15 mixed but you need the 0.33uF at 275V. You may find one cheaper just make sure the pin pitch is 15mm so it fits the PCB.

There are two caps on the board with different ratings, I can’t remember what the other one is, but the grey one is the one that failed on both occasions so far.

The cap is surface mounted, i.e. the legs go through the holes in the PCB but it is soldered onto the top side where PCB traces are.

Also the grey cap is glued down so you will need to cut the glue with a scalpel or Stanley knife.

To disassemble the case:

Unplug the unit from mains.

Take off the hopper (fully unscrew it and lift it out)

Take out the stationary burr

Turn the unit upside down

Pull off the rubber feet

Unscrew the cable cover and the 4x screws holding the base on. You will need a tri-wing security screw driver/bit for this

Remove the cable cover and base cover.

Pull off the on/off button and the timer adjuster knob. Tip - wrap the knob with electrical tape or masking tape before using pliers to protect the finish.

Take out the 3x philips self-tapping screws that fix the base onto the case

Carefully split the base from the case. You will need to carefully pries the case over the timer adjustment pot so it doesn’t catch on the hole as you pull it clear.

Remove the screws that fix the 2x micro switches to the frame. One for the grinds bin, the other for the hopper.

Unscrew the self-tappers that hold the motor/burr in place and carefully split to release the PCB. Unscrew the nut to release the timer pot - 13mm nut driver or spanner.

You should now have access to the capacitor (see photo above)

De-solder it and clean the holes using braided solder wick. I don’t advise using a solder pump on these as the traces are very fragile

Pop in the new cap (doesn’t matter which way round) and solder it back in

At this point I test the unit by jumpering across the micro switches with a short cable directly onto the PCB (see photo above) and pressing the start button BUT - Only do this if you know what you are doing - this is 240V live mains electricity !!!!!

Let me know if you need anything else - good luck.

TIP - the case will only go back together one way, if you find an edge sticking out after re-assembly, release the base base and try again - try not to swear too much! Also there is a small plastic plunger do-hickey that must fitted onto the on/off button BEFORE you put the case on! 🤬

Andy.