ACS Vesuvius Evo Leva

LMSC

Did you figure out where the burnt wire starts and ends? Besides changing the connectors, you might also want to consider swapping out that part and the wires.

Paolo_Cortese

Im sorry if i was a bit short in my reply and miss the video call but from yesterday morning I’m away from Italy and even on video call I cannot show anything. The problem it’s almost clear, machine is US version so F06 set on 1 and it’s ok. The cables can handle 5kw as well as the connectors, if there was a abnormal wattage draws the power socket or the power switch should melt before the other, so I assumed that the problem was a loose cable in one of the joints that caused the problem. Cutting a bit the wires and change the connectors that are very common in every local market should fix the problem. In any case I cannot ask to make any test before that the machine itself back to work.

ddoonie

Just following up.

@LMSC I didn’t trace it per Paolo’s comment.

Paolo_Cortese Even this response would have been a lot more helpful than what you sent me. eg. I asked what gauge wires, rating requirements for the connectors etc..

To anyone else that ends up in a similar position, I ended up switching the 3 connectors with WAGO 221’s (exact types here). Rated up to 32 A/450 V and fit in the junction box. I couldn’t find similar connectors to what were already installed. I’m guessing the wires are 12 awg. No clue if they are adequate, but they work in residential wiring.

Hopefully this resolves the issue permanently and no new ones arise.

Adrianmsmith

ddoonie ended up switching the 3 connectors with WAGO 221’

We use these all the time for LOW voltage and LOW power stuff.

Wouldn’t contemplate in this situation. yes i have seen the ratings …. But.

DavecUK

Adrianmsmith We use these all the time for LOW voltage and LOW power stuff.

Wouldn’t contemplate in this situation. yes i have seen the ratings …. But.

Used correctly, I think they will be absolutely fine….as long as the clamp is good on the wires. I’ve seen tests of them properly used and they can actually take way above their rated amperage. The only time there are issues with them, is when they are not used correctly. I have a box of them for whenever i need to join wires together, much better than terminal blocks.

In fact, I like Wago connectors and they will probably work better than the ones ACS are using..plus they are in the electronics bay, which stays quite cool.

LMSC

Wago 221…

ddoonie

So far so good, will keep you guys posted if anything arises.

Thanks again.

rxmnt

I’ve had another problem with my Evo yesterday.

I flushed the steam wand, when I noticed that the steam was unusually “watery”. I turned it off and on a couple of times, then the pump started to pull water, and suddenly, I heard something like a THUMP and vapor started to rise from the back of the machine.

I tried to turn the machine off, but the RCD triggered (I assume because water got to places where it shouldn’t be) before I could reach the off switch.

I took the following picture about two minutes after the incident, and I’m pretty sure that the water (and vapor) exited through the part I circled, in the middle of the boiler:

You can also still see water (or at least drops) at the back and side walls.

I didn’t touch the machine for about a day. It does turn on, but I’ve quickly turned it off because I wasn’t sure what do do.

I’m not sure if this is just a “remove this part, wrap it with PTFE, and put it back in” situation, or if there could be some other underlying fault, like the boiler getting overfilled or something like that.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cuprajake

More like the vacuum breaker top left near the white plug

Elcarajillo

Cuprajake My thoughts as well.

The circled item is the level probe, rarely a problem.

DavecUK

I suspecting it was the safety valve top left brass part.

My best guess is the autofill ran on and overfilled the boiler, or at least over pressurised it…the safety valve went off (the thump) and water/steam sprayed out onto the back panel, the pressure dropped and the RCD tripped (probably because water in the limit stat area shorting it to earth. If I am right and I am pretty sure I am.

The steam was “unusually watery”, has this happened before?
has the autofill ever run on what seems for longer than usual even if you have not drawn hot water from the water wand
Why did this happen? Is it because you have a sclaed or dirty fill probe, the part you outlined in red
is your water high in limescale,, do you use any water treatments (details)

First thing to do is let it dry out for 24 hours (sounds like you have done that.

Remove the fill probe (2 minute job, or your doing it wrong), undo small pinch nut, pull probe out, clean it at the end, trim a few mm of plastic of any sheathing right near the probe tip.
After which turn it all on and open hot the water tap while it warms up….the pump shouldn’t run and as it warms up let any water com out of the temp….
once the temperature reaches 100 then close the tap. It shouldn’t be autofilling at this time.
Once up to normal steam temp draw 2 mugs of water out of the boiler.
It should then autofill for a short time then stop.

rxmnt

DavecUK

Hey Dave, thanks for the reply (also, thanks to the others for pointing out that the water probably came from a different part).

No, the unusually watery steam hasn’t happened before. Regarding your second questiion, yes, the pump ran for a long time half an hour before this. The timeline probably looked something like this:

I turned the machine on at 11 AM.
I unexpectedly had to run some errands and forgot to turn the machine off.
I returned at about 2 PM and noticed that the machine didn’t detect any water in the water tank (flashing A11 and black left screen), even though there was enough water in the tank (I had just refilled it this morning). This had been happening the last couple of days and was usually resolved by shaking the water tank a little. I didn’t really think much of it other than “the water probe is probably stuck”.
I shook the water tank, the machine now correctly detected the water, and that’s when the extremely long pump run happened. I just shrugged it off as the machine needing a lot of water after running for hours without it.
I left the machine alone for another 30 minutes or so, then flushed the steam wand, and noticed the unusually watery steam. I turned the steam on and off another 2 times or so, that’s when the pump turned back on, and then what I described in my previous post happened.

I’ll try the steps you outlined and will report back. Thanks for the help.

Edit: Regarding the question about my water: I use a Brita filter pitcher. According to the water company, the hardness of the water in my area is around 114ppm.

rxmnt

DavecUK Just to clarify, when you say “pull out the probe”, you mean the metal part, not the white plastic, right?

DavecUK

rxmnt Edit: Regarding the question about my water: I use a Brita filter pitcher. According to the water company, the hardness of the water in my area is around 114ppm.

Britta filers do almost nothing after the first few days.

You don’t say what “your area” is, but TDS goes up in summer (mine is 240 in winter and 350 in summer, I wonder what figure the water companies use).

Get a TDS meter from Amazon and test your tap water….then you will know. https://tinyurl.com/yltscodh

LMSC

rxmnt machine didn’t detect any water in the water tank (flashing A11 and black left screen), even though there was enough water in the tank

I had this issue recently. The float switch / sensor may have gone faulty. May considering swapping that. :-)

DavecUK

rxmnt It’s a “pinch nut”, screw it back in, you only needed to loosen it just enough so the metal probe can be pulled out. DO NOT try and pull the metal probe before you have put the nut back and just “VERY slightly” nipped up. Then try and pull the metal probe out, if it won’t come easily, loosen the pinch nut a little bit and try again.

Blackbirdman

Hi guys,

I spotted some buildup (scale perhaps?) on the inside of the brew group. I used a water filter pitcher before.

What could be the best approach. My worry is that the buildup is inside the boilers etc as well.

I started to encounter some issues during the brewing process. I load up the portafilter, lower the lever so the pressure infusion fase starts. The set pressure is reached but the pump keeps on supplying water. The machine overshoots a lot and reaches its “change over pressure” where it thinks the lever is lifted. Since the pressure is too low the system automatically dumps the pressure through the 3 way valve making my (well prepared shot) useless. I’m now thinking this could be related with the build up.

Adrianmsmith

Blackbirdman

Do you have v1 or v2

If v2 with late firmware what is shot start set at.

And what pi set

I use 2 bar pi and 9 shot start.

If pi and shot start are closer together your situation can easily happen

Blackbirdman

Adrianmsmith PI is set to 1.7 bar. I haven’t changed to shot start (and don’t now how). I don’t think I have the latest software btw.

The funny thing is that when it overshoots to, say 2,4. The machine will still ramp up to for example: 4,3 and after again to 6.1. Before it would just leave it and let me pre infuse.

LMSC

Adrianmsmith If pi and shot start are closer together your situation can easily happen

Can you explain this Adrian? Why would the pump overfill? Does the group has a sensor or a valve which signals the group is full? Is that faulty ?

Adrianmsmith

Blackbirdman

As you said this line seems heavy.

Shot start pressure is the last number in the standard settings menu but only present in late firmwares .

Where does your piston sit with the lever up out of interest.

Ive only ever had mine plumbed in but am yet to inspect the boilers!! So could be on borrowed time!! Im running on luck but never get close in 12 months to my cartridge capacity.

Id take the cylinder out and give it a gentle clean and some molykote and see if the situation improves and for how long. In theory that line is below the piston seal but i suspect your piston could need raising slightly (talking about 1mm max btw) and that line is at the seal line ??

When did you kast lube your seals. I probably do mine more than once a year even when im not frequently tinkering…

Blackbirdman

Adrianmsmith yeah I thought so too.

This is where the piston sits when the lever is in the “normal” position.

I’ve never taken out the piston to be honest and also never lubed it. When you lubricate it, do you just smear some molykote on the inside or do you completely remove the piston.

I’ve had this machine for 1 ¼ year now, so I guess it is long overdue.

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