ACS Vesuvius Evo Leva

LMSC

danielpugh Thank you. Your detailed guidance is valuable. The Evo community is grateful to you! 😊

Two questions for the avoidance of any doubts:

1: How did you remove the far end pipe connected to the service boiler? Because, we don’t have access to the centre bolt beneath the T-pipe unless the pressure stat or the plate separating reservoir is removed. I reckon removing the steel nut to the right of the L part (that goes down) of the pipe will free the boiler.

2: Standing in front of the machine, which direction (clock wise or anti) did you turn the 3 bolts of the pipes and the temperature sensors please ?

I am pleased your service boiler is clean! Great work. Well done.

Many thanks again!

danielpugh

@LMSC

By this I think you mean the pipe that goes to the bottom of the boiler - if so I kept it attached lower down. Instead I detached at the top of the machine - where it connects to the manifold on the right side. [Edit:added pic - couldn’t add arrows on my phone, but green lines point to where I disconnected pipes]
All three and the temp sensor are normal thread i.e. anticlockwise to undo. None of them needed excessive force to undo.

LMSC

danielpugh Thank you.

Yes. Please see the red texts and arrow!

DenisS

How hard would it be to add a T-part on the bottom of the boiler where the pipe goes out, and one side goes to that pipe and one side has a close/open valve to drain the boiler?

danielpugh

@DenisS - there may be a plug you can just undo. Personally I wouldnt add as;

Extra area to go wrong/leak
It’s really easy to take the whole boiler out. Lifts straight out through the top without needing to even drain the water… obviously once out you can drain very quickly. I think the syringe method is also a good one - I ordered a large one for £6 Inc delivery

[Edit] that said I don’t think too difficult given the right parts if there isn’t a plug that can just be undone already there.

DenisS

If there is space under the boiler you could simply add a 90 degree thing from it and add a on/off so if you ever want to drain the boiler, just take a panel off and rotate the valve, drain and turn off, there you go. We are talking of only 2-2.5 bar max pressure in a boiler it’s not that much.

danielpugh

@DenisS - needs confirmation from someone who knows i.e. @Paolo but maybe the existing plugs can be opened?? I.e. 3 viewable in the pic below..

Elcarajillo

I think the plug near centre would be ideal. High pressure ball valves are available ¼′‘ BSPP, ⅜’'BSPP -upwards,rated to 170 c. Approved by WRAS.

It would depend on clearance / length of fitting. or fit short elbow to change direction

danielpugh

@LMSC

Aah yours is different from mine slightly.

I didn’t take it off - I left it in place and lifted the whole lot upwards. I think you are on the right track to remove - I’d hold steady with wrench and turn as you indicate. Not sure there is room to rotate. If I had to guess I’d say it was installed on top of the boiler and the whole lot lowered in originally.

I literally spent hours trying to undo the u-bend at the bottom of the boiler before giving up and taking it all out. Once out I undid the 3 parts in about 3 mins. Super easy once you have room…

[Edit] I don’t think that other thing is a pressure stat. It’s a thermostat secondary to the PID temp I think. Mine isn’t even screwed to the boiler. Just a plate that holds it against the metal surface.

LMSC

danielpugh Bizzare, we have differences in production machine.

So, in your case or those who have similar setup, you removed

2 outlet pipes
3rd one is the auto fill probe (as per your green arrow) - just disconnect the wire than undoing the bolt ?
removed the temp sensor - PID
disconnected the plastic tube with the sensor connected to reservoir
of course, the plumbing

Those who have boiler with my set up, we need to remove :

3 pipes I indicated in my picture
disconnect the temp sensor
disconnect the auto fill probe (no need to remove, I guess)

Thanks for the inputs and interesting insights.

LMSC

danielpugh Not sure there is room to rotate. If I had to guess I’d say it was installed on top of the boiler and the whole lot lowered in originally.

I also think it was fitted and installed. The L Part (marked in red colour) has a bolt at the bottom, connected by a black valve, if I am not wrong, en route to the drip tray via a plastic tube. Will figure out, how, if we get there!

danielpugh

@LMSC less than that
Machine turned off
Took out reservoir leaving it’s 3 silicone pipes dangling and closed the panel

[Up top]
4 screws and top cover to get access

3 copper pipes - at locations indicated with green
detached PID sensor
2 wires on top to thermostat
1 wire to water level
[Below]
-access panel (Hex/Allen screws to get access)
Two wires to element
three small screws holding the boiler mounts

On yours I guess you have a pipe from the magnetic memory vacuum maybe. Apart from that leave as much in place as possible.

danielpugh

@LMSC pressure stat is the thing at the bottom of my pic - three wires - red, white, black and allows to adjust the preinfusion pump pressure.

Intriguing how you have a pipe from your vacuum thing. Presumably I’d need pipes and joiner as well as the metal memory bit to assemble (assuming @paolo sends when in stock …).

LMSC

danielpugh Intriguing how you have a pipe from your vacuum thing. Presumably I’d need pipes and joiner as well as the metal memory bit to assemble (assuming @paolo sends when in stock …).

I assumed that’s the original design. Strange, you have them differently. Your thermostat is also different. In ours, there is a black button on top, which I think you can hit to reset! Where is that in your machine ?

danielpugh

@LMSC mine has the white L shape bit which I think is to block splashes from the vacuum. Underneath that it’s the same thermostat. I think they are precautionary really to shut of electric at 145 degrees. Realistically if the PID failed the boiler would be turned off anyway I think…

DavecUK

danielpugh Realistically if the PID failed the boiler would be turned off anyway I think…

There’s very few situations where you would get thermal runaway….also the safety valve would vent and the loss of water would eventually expose the probe tip, this would also shut off the elements/ trigger an autofill….risne and repeat until the tank was completely empty…then the machine would shut down, if it didn’t due to some other fault, then the probe tip would be exposed and the elements would shut down….

There are multiple redundancies….but i still have to say…if you go out, switch the machine off…cos it only takes 15 minutes to warm up again.

gus6464

Whoever ordered the V-lever did you already receive it and install it?

DavecUK

Just a thought for anyone ever planning to drain Vesuvius boilers for deacaling.. I am pretty sure the boiler plugs are 1//4 inch threads. I am trying to get confirmation of thread type,

When I know and assuming these fit, I think it would be well worth trying them as replacements for plugs. I think they are good up to 200C. I would just wrap and fit with PTFE

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=mini+ball+valve+bsp&ref=nb_sb_noss

Of course, wait until I can get a confirmation….but would be a great way to drain boilers down, conveniently.

Features：

Material:304 Stainless Steel

Connection:Male x Female

Pressure:PN63 (1000PSI)

Thread Type: BSP

Temperature Range:-20degree Celsius~200degree Celsius

Suitable medium: Water, Oil, Gas

Description：

1.100% brand new and high quality.

2.Made of high quality material, durable and practical to use.

3.NPT Female threads for connecting to male threaded pipe fittings.

4.The body and ball for extra strength and corrosion resistance.

5.Heavy duty stainless handles to increase service life, fast ¼ turn open or closed operation.

6.Standard port flow for smaller valve size, each valve individually tested for maximum safety about Water, Oil, and Gas(no freezing).

Size chart：

¼″

Package included：

1*Mini Ball Valve

LMSC

DavecUK It’s fitted at the bottom of the boiler is it?

DavecUK

LMSC yes, you would fit one to bottom of steam and one to bottom of brew boiler.

In additon to the thread being correct, I am unsure about how much space you have under a production boiler to accommodate this valve.

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