So I’ve made a few shots, got the Philos pretty well dialled in and have some very early opinions regarding the grinder. Two things important to bear in mind:
- I have made under ten shots on it. The first five I didn’t drink, they were to run through the burrs and also to dial in.
- I have only just bought and received the grinder. I’m therefore likely to have significant bias towards liking it as it is my new toy!
Having said the above, I really like what I have experienced so far. I have compared the I200 burr set to the Niche Zero, and have some tentative comparisons.
What is the Philos like to use?
Firstly, in terms of sound level, the Niche is quieter and a more pleasant sound. I don’t find either objectionable, however the Philos has a deeper, electrical noise to it a bit like the low hum of a fridge. It doesn’t bother me, and sounds quieter in real life than in the videos I’ve watched on YouTube, but I’d rather have a noise similar to that of the Niche, which sounds like more like a gentle abrasion noise.
Secondly, I really enjoy the workflow on the Niche Zero. I have a short portafilter holder from Decent set up under the Niche, which allows me to grind straight into the portafilter and get a nice even mound of coffee directly in the basket. I am not such a fan of grinding into a dosing cup, but suppose I will have to get used to it unless Mazzer come out with a set of forks which can be swapped over with the dosing cup arm.
I dislike the knocker. Not because it is bad or doesn’t work, but because I have not felt I needed to use anything when grinding with the Niche Zero. Having said this however, I have taken to keeping a small bowl under the chute of the Niche Zero as coffee grinds will fall out of the chute in between uses. It’s likely the same would happen if I didn’t use the knocker on the Philos , so it’s probably a good thing it’s there. This is therefore more of me getting used to a more thorough workflow as opposed to the Philos being worse. I should probably argue it’s better as it gets all of the coffee out of the exit chute.
What does the espresso taste like?
In terms of flavour, for me there is no contest between the two. I really enjoyed the coffee I get from the Niche Zero, but was never 100% happy I could recreate the types of drinks I got in my favourite coffee shops which seemed less harsh and sweeter. The Philos gives me a shot much closer to the best I have had from a really good cafe. This is not knocking the Niche, and likely more related to using a flat as opposed to a conical burr.
I dialled in both grinders with a medium-roast single origin from Honduras. This is from Wogan Coffee in Bristol, and a pretty common option for me. It’s probably my most-bought single origin. I was able to get both grinders dialled in to output 36g in the cup in exactly 29 seconds.
The difference in flavour and texture was very pronounced. The Niche Zero gives a wonderfully-textured shot, almost like double cream. It’s mouth-coating and lingers on the palate.
The Philos by comparison has a lighter mouthfeel, still very pleasant but noticeably less viscous. More like single cream in comparison.
Neither was ‘better’ or ‘worse’ than the other, it probably comes down more to personal preference.
I wasn’t sure what Jim meant when he stated the Philos with the I200 burr set made a very ‘sweet’ cup. I know now! It was particularly apparent when comparing the Philos to the Niche Zero. The shots from the Niche were assertive, and punch well through milk. With this particular single origin I would liken them to a dark chocolate, with a faint, almost tannin-like astringency notable throughout, which lingers on the palate.
The Philos produces a shot similar in style but with no perceivable astringency. In addition, I noted a fruity orange or possibly peach flavour in the finish with the Philos which I was not able to taste on the Niche Zero. It was really enjoyable, and tasted much smoother and sweeter in the cup.
I really enjoy the shots from the Niche, and have been very happy with it as a single dosing grinder for almost four years. I would happily recommend it to anyone looking for a reliable single dosing grinder, and would go so far as to say that it has the best workflow I have experienced in any grinder. It just works.
For me however, the smoothness, sweetness, and increased clarity of the espresso from the Philos is more aligned with what I am currently looking for in my coffee. The shots from it are absolutely delicious, and I can’t wait to explore the other single origins I have at home.
I feel as though my wife will want to continue to use the Niche as it is easier to use. You literally just put the portafilter in the Decent cradle and flip the switch. With the Philos it’s a little more of a faff with the dosing cup, but absolutely worth it in terms of flavour in the cup from my perspective.
Sorry for rambling. Trying to describe taste is hard! Any questions let me know, and I’ll do my best to answer them.