Unfortunately my current machine, a near 20 year old Izzo Alex which I purchased second hand 2 years ago, stopped working a couple of weeks ago. A few weeks ago, the boiler started to constantly hiss and lots of steam was escaping and condensing on the metal cover. I assumed this was an issue with the vacuum breaker, so a few days ago I took the cover off and fiddled with the breaker (in hindsight I think I removed the locking bracket for the pin - either way I definitely made matters worse!). The following day, I came down to find that the kitchen had turned into a steam room and the machine had stopped working. It had also tripped the extension cable and a couple of fuses on the mains board for the house. The machine was on a smart plug and had been on for a couple of hours by the time I noticed. Naturally, I would assume the steam was as a result of the vacuum breaker finally failing completely (you could clearly see where water has evaporated onto the boiler and the breaker was missing the pin in the centre). I have since sourced and replaced the vacuum breaker, with the help of Bella Barista (whom the machine was originally purchased from back in the day). However, the electrical tripping issue is persisting and isn’t as easy to diagnose for layman such as myself. My initial inclination would be that water from the steam has shorted the Gicar, however, you guys (with more knowledge of this machine - particularly DaveC) may have a better idea of what’s going wrong. The machine will turn on and you can hear the pump running as though it is filling the boiler, before tripping every time. I should also note that the heating light doesn’t come on, only the sound of the pump. Many thanks!

Did you remove the circlip on the pin!? has the pin gone away into the boiler??

@"DavecUK"#p60896 Yes I believe so! Could that be causing it to trip?

Definitely, you need to remove the vacuum breaker and replace it. At the moment Your boiler just has an open hole to the outside. World and steam will be coming out of there all the time. This has probably fried the heating element because the boiler will have run dry. But the limit stat will have been unable to trip as it wouldn't have achieved the required temp to trip..

Of course I'm saying this without a single photo of the part you call the vacuum breaker, or the inside of the machine!

@"DavecUK"#p60956[URL=https://i.imgur.com/gddJzNe.jpg][IMG]https://i.imgur.com/gddJzNe.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Yup exactly what I thought…this is the sequence of events which would have occurred…in order. 1. You removed the circlip and the vacuum breaker plunger and seal dropped into the boiler 2. You didn't realise the ramifications when the machine turned on and you were not there 3. The kitchen filled with steam as did the inside of the machine and water condensed everywhere, all coming out of that hole.. 4. then 5 and 6 happened which fried your heating element 5. *periodically the pump refilled the steam boiler but unluckily for you the boiler did not cut out when the machine saw low water (which I believe it did in those days) and for some reason the heating element didn't turn off when the autofill probe tip was exposed.* 6. *With no pressure in the boiler the temperature could not get above 100C, the limit stat is set to about 135C and unluckily even though there was lots of steam, nothing in the case tripped out* 7. **or more likely the following happened as 2 faults at the same time in point 5 are very unlikely** 8. **the steam eventually fused out the Gicar box, limit stat, pressure stat, or damaged one of the SSRs.. I don't know which….and the heating elements are probably OK** The last point is probably what happened as more than 1 thing would have to not work **This bit is important, was it a breaker or an RCD that tripped, the first trips on overcurrent, the second on a short to earth at 30 mA, If it was a big overcurrent it's more likely a direct short which would often be visible…or the boiling on the heating element was so fierce that the steam prevented the autofill probe from cutting power to the element and the bubbling caused parts of the element to get exposed and it was old so simply gave out.** Below is what dropped into your boiler when you removed the circlip, you can actually replace the sealing O ring on these for a few pence. [upl-image-preview url=https://i.imgur.com/mnUIvz5.jpeg] Here is what a MK2 should look like inside, you can see the limit stat on the side of the boiler on the second photo [upl-image-preview url=https://i.imgur.com/e6u433Z.jpeg] [upl-image-preview url=https://i.imgur.com/XM9prCq.jpeg] Next steps in diagnosis: 1. **Remove the spade connectors to the heating element so it can't turn on…is it still tripping out** If it is, then it will be the heating element, remove and inspect it. also, retrieve lower part of vacuum breaker and inspect boiler for scale.

Help with my Izzo Alex MkII (HX)

DavidAV1982

DavecUK

Here is a picture of how it looked after the failure (I’ve since replaced the valve). I think you’re on the money about the valve dropping into the boiler. How would that cause it to trip (would it be something to do with the heating element)? Also any ideas on how to get it out?

I feel like such an idiot for causing this - please don’t judge me too harshly!

![](blob:https://coffeetime.freeflarum.com/b935f4ac-a65c-4264-8a14-c5e91269f3f6)

DavidAV1982

DavecUK

![](blob:https://coffeetime.freeflarum.com/e53e0185-c9c8-49cb-b5b2-992858f0f21c)

DavecUK

DavidAV1982 can you just drag and drop the image into a post, the forum will take care of it. I can’t see any image?

DavidAV1982

DavecUK

John_Yossarian

I think it is the heating element as @DavecUK has explained. I encountered something similar five years ago, Dave suggested it was the heating element, which I initially did not follow up and it cost me a new rotary pump. It was, of course, the heating element.

The symptoms were the same, the machine starts, I hear the pump and once it is the heating element on it will trip.

DavecUK

Yup exactly what I thought…this is the sequence of events which would have occurred…in order.

You removed the circlip and the vacuum breaker plunger and seal dropped into the boiler
You didn’t realise the ramifications when the machine turned on and you were not there
The kitchen filled with steam as did the inside of the machine and water condensed everywhere, all coming out of that hole..
then 5 and 6 happened which fried your heating element
periodically the pump refilled the steam boiler but unluckily for you the boiler did not cut out when the machine saw low water (which I believe it did in those days) and for some reason the heating element didn’t turn off when the autofill probe tip was exposed.
With no pressure in the boiler the temperature could not get above 100C, the limit stat is set to about 135C and unluckily even though there was lots of steam, nothing in the case tripped out
or more likely the following happened as 2 faults at the same time in point 5 are very unlikely
the steam eventually fused out the Gicar box, limit stat, pressure stat, or damaged one of the SSRs.. I don’t know which….and the heating elements are probably OK

The last point is probably what happened as more than 1 thing would have to not work

This bit is important, was it a breaker or an RCD that tripped, the first trips on overcurrent, the second on a short to earth at 30 mA, If it was a big overcurrent it’s more likely a direct short which would often be visible…or the boiling on the heating element was so fierce that the steam prevented the autofill probe from cutting power to the element and the bubbling caused parts of the element to get exposed and it was old so simply gave out.

Below is what dropped into your boiler when you removed the circlip, you can actually replace the sealing O ring on these for a few pence.

Here is what a MK2 should look like inside, you can see the limit stat on the side of the boiler on the second photo

Next steps in diagnosis:

Remove the spade connectors to the heating element so it can’t turn on…is it still tripping out

If it is, then it will be the heating element, remove and inspect it. also, retrieve lower part of vacuum breaker and inspect boiler for scale.

DavidAV1982

DavecUK

Dave thanks so much for taking the time to help and send such a comprehensive answer - it’s really kind of you and very much appreciated. I’m back home later this evening so I’ll try your suggestion then and feed back after.

DavidAV1982

DavecUK

Hi Dave

Apologies for the late response. I’ve just unplugged the spade connectors to the heating element as you suggested and you were bang on! The heating light is now coming on and it’s no longer tripping.

Do you reckon I will need a replacement heating element? Is so would you know where best to source one?

Also, any idea how best to drain the boiler before removing the element?

Many thanks in advance.

DavecUK

DavidAV1982 Do you reckon I will need a replacement heating element? Is so would you know where best to source one?

Also, any idea how best to drain the boiler before removing the element?

Yes, try Bella Barista. best bet is try a heating element first see what happens..if it was limit stat shorting to earth, it would still do it with the element terminals disconnected, assuming you have an RCD (a question I asked before).

https://bellabarista.co.uk/products/izzo-vivi-alex-rocket-giotto-ecm-mechanika-barista-heating-element

You would drain it via the hole left when you remove your old element.

DavidAV1982

DavecUK

Okay I’ll order now and attempt to drain the boiler without making too much mess! Yes we do have RCDs rather than regular trip switches so fingers crossed this should resolve it. I’ll feed back once the I’ve received / fitted the new element.

Can I buy you a bag of coffee or something as a thank you for your help?

DavecUK

DavidAV1982 Can I buy you a bag of coffee or something as a thank you for your help?

No need, although your always welcome to donate to the non profit free hosting service that gives a home to this forum and many others.

John_Yossarian

DavidAV1982 I suspect you do not want the mess when you unscrew the element and the water pours out. For such a purpose I bought a 100 ml plastic syringe and attached a flexible plastic tubing, ca. 20-30 cm. You can take the water out if you remove the vacuum breaker on top of the boiler and use the hole to suck the water out with the syringe. It did the job for me.

DavidAV1982

DavecUK

This is the offending element…

DavidAV1982

DavecUK

The inside of the boiler is actually remarkably clean. There’s some sediment and deposits at the bottom but no visible signs of scale on the walls. Might try and flush some was through to remove the sediment before sealing back up.

DavidAV1982

John_Yossarian

Thanks John - eventually I just sealed a straw with putty and tipped it up. Seemed to do the trick!

DavecUK

Did you check it didn’t trip with the element terminals disconnected as I suggested. You can’t often tell visually an element has failed.

DavidAV1982

Could you tell me which part this is (I broke it whilst reattaching)? Thanks

Cuprajake

looks like the limit switch, but ill let @DavecUK confirm 100%

DavecUK

Cuprajake Yup, the limit stat.

DavidAV1982

Thanks both - I’ve been looking and can’t seem to find any replacement parts online. This might be a problem!

DavecUK

DavidAV1982 Really, it’s an industry generic standard part? One good to 135 or 145C should be fine. Or is yours screwed into the boiler end plate and the thread snapped off…as there are 2 types. One that screws in and one that’s surface mount?