Remove the old PID
I took off the previous PID and all the associated sensors.
Here’s what it looked like once it was gone:
Here’s the pile of stuff I removed:
Remove the energy saving box
This involves removing the energy saving device, power switch, led lights and no longer required wiring. The original switch was 5v to talk to the energy saving box, rather than 240v.
You then fit a new LED that came with the kit, and a Silvia v4 power switch. Route the mains power to the new switch.
For the old momentary switch I swapped the brew button faceplate. This means that I now have a momentary press brew switch. This means the Ito can always control the pump (useful for many of the features) and the brew button will tell the Ito to start a shot.
Rewire
I did all the 240v wiring. This involved the following:
- Piggy back power (live and neutral) to power the Ito
- Run wires from the 3 way valve and pump to the ito (so it can control these)
- Fit a solid state relay, connect to wires that were connected to the brew thermostat
- Solder an on board power supply to the ito (it needs 5v to run)
- Stick the ito to the machine
- Tidy up the wiring with cable ties (this not only makes it look better, but also prevents any wires resting against the brew boiler
- I also attached the temp sensor to the boiler with conductive epoxy glue (this takes 24hr to fully set)
Here’s what it looks like now:
I called it a night at that. The next step is to connect all the 5v side, I.e. sensors and the brew switch. It does mean that I’m now on filter coffee until I’ve finished the upgrade.
