I purchase my vesuvius used a couple years ago and it's been serving me well since. However the other day the machine started hissing and I went over to check it out, machine indicated Boiler Overtemp and the hissing noise was the pressure relief valve that had activated. [URL=https://i.imgur.com/ybi5q5w.jpg][IMG]https://i.imgur.com/ybi5q5w.jpg[/IMG][/URL] You'll notice that the machine knows what temperature it is, and yet the boiler is still on (more on this below) So I quickly unplugged the machine, I wasn't able to triage anything further that evening, but the following day I started the machine up and 30 seconds later there was a smell of burning electric and my 20Amp circuit breaker tripped. The power inlet (EMI filter) fried, so I replaced that, then I found that the power switch also fried and so I replaced that. However I'm now seeing what caused this issue - both boilers heat all the time. This should not be possible on the US 120V version of this machine. Here's what's even crazier - both boilers heat all the time even when the machine is off (via the touch screen), but mains power is still on. This immediately overloaded the electrical components and the smell of burning plastic returns. Here is the machine off with the brew boiler still on: [URL=https://i.imgur.com/eSB1GMF.jpg][IMG]https://i.imgur.com/eSB1GMF.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I've unhooked the power to the steam boiler so that it doesn't fry the electronics and so that I had time to try a factory reset, still no solution. The boiler turn on whenever the mains power is on! To make matters worse, I fear that the pump is also fried now. As I am getting 24V DC on that connector but the pump does not work. What is going on?! Any ideas?

@"DavecUK"#1 actually joined this forum as I've seen you provide sage guidance on this machine so many times before - would be great to get your perspective on this strange behavior.

OK, lets unpack it with a little armchair logic… Multiple component failure is unlikely unless they are all linked. together in such a way that it can happen. So the pump is not failed…or the transformer that runs it… The other components on the power side may well be fried due to excessive current draw at 115V, far more than their design load…The out of temperature range alarm not shutting off the element is also impossible unless!…we will come to that. * You say the machine should not be capable of simultaneous operation and this is correct, the 115/110 volt version of the software doesn't allow it and this option doesn't exist on your machine does it? [upl-image-preview url=https://i.imgur.com/njQGFhb.png] * Clearly you feel (and I have no reason to doubt you) that both elements are sucking up power, which at your voltage will fry the wiring upstream e.g. RF Filter and power receptacle as they are good for 16A, so single boiler operation. Logically this means there is likely only two causes of the **single** fault affecting your machine. * A failed motherboard that is sending signals to both SSRs to switch on and stay on…this is extremely unlikely as they have proved bulletproof over the years. * **A much more likely cause is a failed SSR (failed closed), probably the service boiler SSR, Of course when you turn it on, the brew boiler will always suck power and so will the service boiler drawing over 22 amps and the feed circuitry won't like that** If it is a failed SSR, replacement of the SSR and probably just the RFI unit and switch is all that is required….the wiring will probably be OK unless it was on for too long. Check out the SSRs, especially the service boiler one, and get back to us.

@"DavecUK"#p21125 Thanks so much. Is the Service boiler the same as the steam boiler - I assume so I do think some components got fried specifically the mains switch and EMI plug receptical as both were very burnt - I’ve replaced both though so we should be good to go now and I can get the machine on with these repairs Am I correct that SSR is the Solid State Eelay? How can I test these? With the machine turned off via touchscreen both boilers are still on (or at least the lights are illuminated indicating such)? I even turned off the steam boiler on the touch screen and it stayed illuminated- so that’s very strange to me. Thank you again for your help in troubleshooting - I am very greatful.

@"carter840"#p21127 Service boiler is steam boiler yes. testing an SSR which is an opto coupled device really needs to be done with an appropriate load in a test rig and they do need to have an in range load attached to them. You can see them with the cover off and trace which boilers they power. There is a simpler way for you…its unreasonable to think both SSRs would have failed simultaneously, unless there was a lightning strike or something. So pull the terminals of the service boiler heating elements (isolate them well, so you don't get magic blue smoke) and let the brew boiler heat up and then switch on and off normally. If it does (and I think it will)…switch off, **unplug machine,** remove the service boiler SSR and replace it with the brew boiler SSR, don't bother putting the old SSR back in the brew boiler bit. Just make sure the wires can't short, cos of the blue smoke. **Switch on and see if the service boiler can be switched on off….if it can, switch off and unplug**, put the brew boiler SSR back so you can use the machine for espresso and buy a replacement SSR for the service boiler side. I also might feed back to the factory to see if it's possible for the US machines to put in an inline fuse/breaker, resettable that trips main power if the draw is above 16A ish. As you know US plugs don't have fuses like UK plugs and I assume your breaker was 20 amps?

@"carter840"#p21127 I would test the relays with a multimeter, with the machine unplugged. If there is continuity between the two poles on the output side, the relay(s) have gotten stuck in closed position. Seems very unlikely that both relays would fail at the exact same time though…

@"Mayhem"#p21131 may not work, because the shorted relay don't usually register continuity with the multimeter.

@"DavecUK"#p21128 Dave you are increadibly helpful - thank you. With your guidance I have confirmed the pump does still work. That’s a relief in terms of repair cost. With the heating element for the service boiler unplugged I am able to get the brew boiler to temp and it does shut off. Which is great! The inidciators on the front show that the right side light remains illuminated - is this the service boiler? Also you are correct that I couldn’t register continuity on the relay (that surprised me). I’m short on time today, so I didn’t have a chance to switch SSRs as you recommended, but based on the above I’m inclined to order a new SSR for the service boiler. To answer your question, yes my circuit is 20Amps - future proofing for whatever machine is next (hoping that’s not for a while with today’s economy) Your suggestion of an in line fuse is sensible. There’s about 6-7 other fuses in the machine. Somewhat odd that there isn’t one for the mains. I might add a breaker right before the mains switch. Lastly, since I’ve got this whole machine opened up. Is there a suggested descaling (edited for spelling) procedure?

> @"carter840"#p21137 The inidciators on the front show that the right side light remains illuminated - is this the service boiler? Also you are correct that I couldn’t register continuity on the relay (that surprised me). Can't remember what lights that LED exactly > @"carter840"#p21137 I’m short on time today, so I didn’t have a chance to switch SSRs as you recommended, but based on the above I’m inclined to order a new SSR for the service boiler. I would continue with the plan as I advised, it's all worked out for you so far, why change a good thing. My plan tells me whether the SSR is bad or the motherboard is bad…your modification is just a time delay and possibly it does the same with the replacement SSR (then money wasted). > @"carter840"#p21137 To answer your question, yes my circuit is 20Amps - future proofing for whatever machine is next (hoping that’s not for a while with today’s economy) It was as I expected, but you confirmed it…This means that breaker would have probably happily allowed 23amps to flow almost indefinitely. > @"carter840"#p21137 Your suggestion of an in line fuse is sensible. There’s about 6-7 other fuses in the machine. Somewhat odd that there isn’t one for the mains. I might add a breaker right before the mains switch. That would be an excellent idea…just remember, depending on type, breakers will sustain various increasing levels of overcurrent for decreasing amounts of time…so select carefully. They don't reach their rating and immediately trip. Many fast blow fuses do of course! Descaling is as per manual really….nothing changes, unless the boilers are physically out.

> @"carter840"#p21137 The inidciators on the front show that the right side light remains illuminated - is this the service boiler? FWIW, it is in a Vesuvius Evo Leva, which has the same LEDs (but a different control board and boilers). The Vesuvius E61 manual is silent on the issue, although it mentions them as "brew and steam" in that order. [upl-image-preview url=https://i.imgur.com/0bqKLJR.png]

It was silent because I couldn't remember which was which and how they were fired

Vesuvius with several issues! Help Diagnose Please.

John_Yossarian

JahLaza Thank you for sharing it here.

My favorite is No. 1, that comes as Profile 1 with the machine at factory settings.

This keeps on giving me sweet shots and prevents me from experimenting too much.

JahLaza

John_Yossarian if I’m honest I’m only properly starting to understand the Vesuvius about now ( I have it about 3 months or something). I had been mainly using that factory profile one. I wasn’t getting what I thought I should and went searching, since trying these it has jumped up a few notches. Really, really impressed now I must say

Edit: I also realised the capabilities of the machine the other day when I was trying a different profile with higher initial pressure and it gave a totally different cup than i had been getting until then on the same bean. Much much more ‘fruitier’ etc., not particularly nice! But did make me realise the capabilities of one knows how to apply it!

DavecUK

JahLaza I think it takes a good 3 months to start appreciating the capabilities of the machine and how temperature and profile can completely change a coffee.

carter840

Well I descaled with citric acid. I’ve done a ton of flushing and yet I’m still seeing debris which looks like chrome flakes in the water.

Any suggestions? Do I need to disassemble any aspect of the grouphead to resolve?

MediumRoastSteam

carter840 Well I descaled with citric acid. I’ve done a ton of flushing and yet I’m still seeing debris which looks like chrome flakes in the water.

One reason to avoid descaling, and, instead, use water which does no scale. There are threads in this forum about that.

It’s likely the solution has stripped some of the chrome from the “mushroom” inside the group. 😔

carter840

MediumRoastSteam

Thanks so much. Should I (and can I) swap out the mushroom what about this one below:

https://www.chriscoffee.com/products/e61-stainless-steel-mushroom

MediumRoastSteam

carter840 - I don’t know, probably a question for Dave.

But, before you do it… inspect the mushroom and see what’s going on there first. 👍

DavecUK

carter840 Thanks so much. Should I (and can I) swap out the mushroom what about this one below:

You can, but I’d save the money and simply clean the loose chrome off of the existing one. If the machines 3 years old or less, it almost certainly uses zero lead brass (0.25% lead) and even if it’s low lead brass…it won’t hurt you.

carter840

So just strip down the chrome with something like a green scotchbrite pad? I’ll pull the mushroom the evening.

One question, why does the mushroom for the Vesuvius have two pieces? Most seem to be only 1 for other e61.

DavecUK

carter840 So just strip down the chrome with something like a green scotchbrite pad? I’ll pull the mushroom the evening.

One question, why does the mushroom for the Vesuvius have two pieces? Most seem to be only 1 for other e61.

Scotchbrite will do fine.

Not sure what you mean about the mushroom most are like that, 2 pieces.

carter840

Figured I’d right a quick update I’ve not pulled the mushroom as the chrome flakes have now stopped.

Annoying I still get a burnt smell from the machine (cooked electronics) despite wiping the effected areas down inside.

Also I can’t get the taste of the citric acid out of my shots! I’ve probably gone through 15 full water reservoir draining the steam boiler and pulling quick shots from the grouphead. Any suggestions?

DavecUK

carter840 when draining the brew boiler, 20s flush, then wait 30s, then repeat…don’t just do one large flush

carter840

Thanks. I assume that’s with the machine on, correct?

I feel like I’ve done about 60 such flushes already with the machine on.

MediumRoastSteam

carter840 it won’t work with the machine off as it relies on the pump to push water through 😊

DavecUK

carter840 you could always remove the heating element, but then you would have to get new heating element o-rings for when you replace it if you drain and wash the boilers out that way. Or I guess you could remove a fitting at the top of the boiler if you’re very careful, possibly the thermal probe but be careful with the wires. Then you can use a syringe and tube and drain the boiler and flush it out that way.

carter840

DavecUK but in theory I can continue to purge with short bursts right - eventually it will get better?

DavecUK

carter840 Yup

avifis53

I recently became the happy owner of the above machine. It was sold to me in “as is” condition because the steam boiler stopped working and became erratic powering on an off continuously but never reaching temperature.

I thought I would share the process I went through to get it to work properly. May help someone.

I first doid a couple of measurements: 1. the low voltage coming to the SSR was steady 19V DC. So, I immediatly suspected the SSR. @. I measured the resistance of the heating element and got 7.9 ohms. Translate that to Wattage at our voltage of 120v makes the unit generate 120×120/7.9=1822W and the current 15.2A. That is a bit high even though the SSR supposed to work up to 25A. I removed the replacement SSR the previous owner installed and found out he did not use a thermal grease or material and therefore I suspect the unit overheated and eventually was damaged.

I contacted ACS and they promptly sent me a replacement heating element (measured 11.5 ohm so, not quite 1400w but after replacing the SSR and the heating element and cleaning the boiler, the machine works flawlessly.

Thanks.

John_Yossarian

avifis53 Thank you for sharing and welcome to the forum

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