Hi I started to do a back-flush and the ACS Minima tripped the electric. The machine hasn't leaked (as far as I know) nor tripped before. I've contacted Paolo but thought I'd ask here - the thought of having to miss a morning's espresso is just too painful 🤒 Any suggestions about what to try? The machine was bought direct from ACS in February this year. Thanks, Rob

> @"Java_avaJ"#p22478 I started to do a back-flush and the ACS Minima tripped the electric. Did it trip as you released the pressure, or when you started? Is it OK if you're not doing a backflush?

It tripped as I started the back-flush and no, it's not OK now at all, just turning on the machine trips

Actually, I wonder if that's true that it tripped as I started. I started and I noticed a slight leak from around the portafilter and turned it off to check I'd put the basket in correctly and it tripped perhaps as I stopped the flush.

@"Java_avaJ"#p22486 Remove the case and see if something sprayed inside the machine when you started the backflush. Sounds like it's now wet in there.

Sorry for the dumb question, but how do I remove the case, can't find the instructions for that and the only obvious screws are on the top around the cup warming tray. Since the boilers are full I can't turn it over of course.

@"Java_avaJ"#p22489 Top screws and the reast ore on the side and rear, there are non underneath that have to be undone. It's 4 on the top and 5 on the sides and back from memory.

Hello @"DavecUK"#p22492 OK, I just removed the lid and casing. There was no sign of splashing other than some coffee staining on the top of the right most boiler. That had happened because I spilled a very small amount of coffee when I first got the machine (I jumped because I burned myself on the hot casing). But nothing wet, no sign of leaking anywhere. To make sure I tried everything with paper towel, removed the red push connector on the top of that boiler and checked it was dry, it was. I couldn't remove the black one opposite without forcing it, so I left it be. So, no sign of splashing, nothing wet, but when I turn on at the mains the electric fuses immediately blow. Any suggestions for what I might try next?

Water spilled out from the portafilter when I started the back-flush, I don't think it was seated correctly since because the blind basket isn't so high, I turned it off immediately but might that spillage have got into that cover that's behind and below the group head? When I take that cover off there are electrical wires connected behind it. Is it worth taking that mechanism apart, and, if so, can you point me to any diagram or explanation of how to do that? [URL=https://i.imgur.com/HPmhHeo.jpg][IMG]https://i.imgur.com/HPmhHeo.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

That's the vent solenoid, if the wires are touching the case and insulation worn through, it can trip the machine. A symptom of a problem there is a trip as soon as you start a shot, and that's if a wire is shorted out it gets energised and trips everything out. I am not sure that component will be the problem, but it is removed the same way as a light bulb the fitting is actually a bayonet fitting (brass bit at top) and it's quite easy just to twist off like a lightbulb, once the wires have been removed of course. I don't believe in coincidences, so it's more than possible something leaked or sprayed when you did the backflush that's made the machine wet and it's tripping things out. Perhaps best to wait 24-hours and see if the problem has gone away, and you can switch the machine on without the electrics tripping out. That won't fix the problem of course, because the reason it tripped during a backflush will still remain.

ACS Minima tripping out electricity, me too

DavecUK

Java_avaJ Original Poster = OP

Java_avaJ

So, just come off the phone with Paolo, he got me to remove the black and the blue wire from the solenoid, it didn’t blow, if I connected only the black wire then it blew, if I connected only the blue wire it didn’t blow. Paolo deduces from this that the solenoid is faulty and he’s sending a replacement.

So, I don’t know if that clarifies that although the solenoid is only engaged when the brew starts/stops it still forms part of the circuit that engages when the boilers are turned on.

DavecUK

Java_avaJ However, as Dave adds, “you never know though”.

You never know….one side of it might be connected, then the switch is a switched live….

Is it an RCD/RCCBO that’s tripping or an MCB? I suspect an RCD or RCCBO

Java_avaJ

DavecUK I didn’t know what an OP was and so it probably comes as little surprise to you that I have no idea whatsoever what an RCD?RCCBO or an MCB is - I guess a type of circuit board; I’ll go and look in the garage and see if it’ll tell me. I’ll make sure the fuse isn’t triggered so I can shine a light in it’s eyes for questioning 🙃

Just looked on the Niglon site and the picture of an MCB seems to match what we have (M3CU14S/A280LD 4+4 100A Incomer + 2 × 80A-30mA RCDs c/w 8 MCBs (1×40A, 3×32A, 1×16A, 3×6A)

Can you go into more detail about the coil and the thin single nut and exactly what I do? What mucking about will it save, no need to remove the solenoid perhaps?

Java_avaJ

@DavecUK thank you so much for your help and suggestions, I’m learning at lot as I go and most of it from you, not only on this forum but via your videos too, a million thanks. Of course it remains to be seen that changing the solenoid fixes the problem… hopefully it does, I’ve come to depend on good coffee in the morning.

DavecUK

Java_avaJ You will only have to change the coil itself…a 3 minute job…saves all that mucking about. The coil is held in place by a single thin nut…..

DavecUK

Take off this bit and just above it is a thin nut. Undo it and if the wires are off the solenoid coil, it will fall into your hand. There may be a washer above the thin nut. When you fit the new coil and do the nut up, don’t overtighten.

MediumRoastSteam

DavecUK - I wasn’t criticising 😊 - I was just patting myself in the back for having got it right. 😊👍

DavecUK

MediumRoastSteam I know….

Java_avaJ

DavecUK Is the solenoid coil that square black component above the thin nut you mention, or is it inside said square black component? Is there an advantage to replacing the entire solenoid rather than just the coil would you say?

DavecUK

Java_avaJ Thne whole black bit is the solenoid coil, slide off slide on…the entire assembly tube brass bits, they + the solenoid coil, form the solenoid.

Unless there has been some problem with leaking during a shot etc.., then just change the coil and save the other bits, nucleaus etc.. for 8-10 years time….when you may need to change them.

Java_avaJ

Sorry for the delay in replying DavecUK I had to go away for a while to visit my Dad.

I got the package from ACS, thank you very much Paolo, and it was the solenoid coil rather than the entire solenoid - as you describe it DavecUK.

It was easy to remove and replace, the most difficult thing was disconnecting the wires with long-nose pliers, once done it worked without any problems and my morning coffee is, once again, flowing. I so missed it 😄

Thank you all for your help.

DavecUK

Java_avaJ Glad it was an easy fix, the coils don’t often break,so here’s hoping a happy 30+ years out of this coil.

« Previous Page