Adrianmsmith
No worries.
In the factory configuration it goes Tank -> silicone hose -> pump -> teflon hose -> check valve (non return) -> several 90Ā° fittings -> valve body -{ either brew boiler or steam boiler
On the brew boiler circuit it has the pressure sensor, telling us that when the valve body is at rest, itās allowing flow to the brew boiler -> group.
Since adjusting the PI pressure makes the pump run until that pressure is met, even without pulling a shot, that means the entire line is always pressurized anyway.
What I did was simply introduce a fitting between the check valve (directly after the pump) and the factory valve body. The fitting is a G1/8 to G1/8 but with a port in the middle so another line can be hooked in.
Now, if you set the pump PI to 1 bar, it should never start to run because line pressure in nearly all houses is over 1 bar.
To give adjustment capability, can run a regulator and expansion tank on the supply line, just like in an RO system. Giving adjustment from max line pressure your house has, down to whatever you want but should be over 1 bar to not run the pump.
So in my last post, I was talking about how I got it to not constantly push line pressure. This is only if people want to do a long bloom without any additional water coming in. Meaning, let the water in and see the PI timer start, lower the handle all the way to stop any more water from coming in. Let it bloom and reduce pressure through the puck, then let the lever up to start the shot (quickly bypassing the fill valve window). Doing shots like that, I never see 9 bar, usually 8.5 or so. The max pressure isnāt really the point though, was just wanting to long bloom directly into a turbo shot. And this could be done on the machine without any plumbing in. I was saying if I added a solenoid to the plumbed in line, this could be made to happen with a switch instead of adjusting the screw for the fill valve.
