hi,

the gear pump spins are just under 4000rpm, so rapidly fills the group - with mains its just line pressure, so 2-3 bar so slower.

all the machines that have had this mod make a sound, so its something to do with the manifold in the machine, if you listen to one of my older vids you can hear it to, so id say even if you fitted a rotary pump to it, the noise would persist.

got to at least try these things, and if anything its given me more confidence to tackle any jobs that should arise in the future,

but for now its staying on the pump.

Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -

I think you should stay on the plumb in mod for 3-5 days to test a few shots see if the lower flow/linear fill without the pump breaks gives you better tasting shots.

I understand your concerns about floods/ and the not dead silent mod, but just test if the taste is better. Stay at 1.5-2 bar pi for line pressure, dont go to 4-6 bar as those shots are harsh with 10 bar extraction pi.

Forgot: you can test the flow by flushing in a bowl on a scale for 10 sec. do it 3 times then average the flow per sec.

Do the same or someone else can do it while on pump (I think I did it while on pump and I had 25g/s. Your flow looks like 10-15g/s max.

You can install a kill off valve/switch off valve and turn the water line to the machine off while you are no there for a few days while you do the testings.

PS: another thing to consider now is that if the flow that enters the boiler is less the temperature of the water injected will be higher, it’s not exactly like in a HX system but it’s similar, you might need to bump the temp 1-2C lower while on the water line. 12-15g/s flow entering the boiler gives more time for the heater to heat the boiler instead of 25g/s while on pump.

The water volume might be lower, but the water temperature will be much lower. The water container keeps the incoming water at room temperature or higher, while mains water tends to be 20 degrees lower.

I noticed this effect with my previous machine. The boiler temp was fluctuating much more after I eliminated the water container and pump.

Yeah I thought that and ive seen it as its taking longer to recover.

It was more an experiment

I looked at rotary pumps too

Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -

Another shot

Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -

M Mine is fed from a tank. So temp is no issue. And i also don’t have a problem with the flow. I have been happy with the conversion for quit some time now. Pi pressure is easily set with the pressure regulator.

    you can always connect the machine to the hot water line 😀 if you manage to filter out the higher concentration of minerals from it.

    NelisB

    Can I ask what components we are looking at here? I recognize all the parts except for that blue controller. Clean setup!

        Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -

        OldGregg a Brio Top from Italtecnica. It’s a digital pstat, but it is also a one-way valve and a dry run protection.

          Cuprajake

          That’s a great work very well done Jake! I have a similar problem since Dec 22! I haven’t had time to fix it as I was very busy at work!

          It’s a two phase fix in my case.

          • The first step was fixing the loose steam arm using the video kindly provided by ACS. I didn’t use a permanent thread locker; instead I used Loctite 542 recommended by @DavecUK. We weren’t confident that PTFE tap will hold the arm firmly fixed in its place.

          Upon firing and using the steam, it didn’t show any leak yesterday. This was short lived as it leaked exactly at the same (internal) place like Jake’s.

          • As far as the second phase is concerned, Jake and I were thinking of using a crowfoot spanner to undo the pipes and fix the leak. The leak is at the edge of the inner frame, the access was very difficult. The steps described by Jake is the best option to address the problem. I haven’t found time to fix mine. I plan do strip the machine and fix later this week.

          PS: I don’t use the steam boiler very much.

            DavecUK wow, that’s a lot of hard work to fix something that probably shouldn’t happened. Maybe pass it on to ACS so they can review/test and assess whether to ‘thread lock’ vs ‘tape/paste’ that part?

            @JakeG how long did you have your machine for? one of the 1st gen of Evo or newest?
            Wondering if it was previously reported by owners and ACS have changed the way that particular part is installed.

                Mines coming up to 2 yrs old soon.

                Tbh, as scary as it was, fix only took 30 mins.

                Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -

                boshk probably shouldn’t happened

                It’s probably a part of wear and tear (occurring sooner than expected), although the leak was at a very inconvenient location.

                Recently, one of our cars reported an engine fault. Upon investigation, they detected the fault to a small moving part costing a few pounds. This required a change. But, they had to remove most of the fixings as that inexpensive part was at the bottom. It was an expensive repair costing hundreds of pounds in labour.

                I’m glad we could carry out DIY repair of the coffee machine ourselves.

                I had reported it initially in addition to a loose steam arm. We had thought fixing the loose steam arm would make the leak go away. Alas, it didn’t 😂 I still need to rip the machine like Jake did.