ACS Vesuvius Evo Leva

ManicAsif

thank you guys. Your advise and input is very much appreciated

Today is a new day and I am sure will be a more productive one :)

I honestly am not panicking, as I know the machine can deliver - have already had some delicious shots straight off the bat. Its more frustration that I cannot get repeatable shots :)

Thanks to you guys, I now have lots to go on and will systematically work through the recommendations :)

@Adrianmsmith - thanks for your kind offer, but unfortunately Derby is tad too far (I am Sarf London - Wimbledon to be precice)

I will certainly use the stock basket for now, but I’d much rather prefer the 18/36 combo, with the medium-dark coffees I prefer and I usually have black Americano’s or straight espresso’s and very occasionally Flat Whites

The only reason I was focussing on my puck prep, is because I know I have a poor technique and when I switched to the self-leveling tamper on my 58mm baskets, my shot cosistency improved considerably

I will also note down all the parameters when I next make my shots

Thanks guys

DavecUK

ManicAsif I’m just under 16 miles from you straight down the A3, so you are always welcome for a coffee and hands on advice.

ManicAsif

DavecUK

Oh wow! for some reason I thought you were based somewhere up North.

Thanks so much, I may take you up on the offer in the near future!

In the meantime, just a pulled a decent shot - first of the day :) - going to make a couple and post up the parameters

PS you’re right about the pressure readings on the screen vs gauge (I didn’t notice that before!)

my last shot was started at around 10.5bar when I raised the lever, but screen showed 9.5 - they slowly aligned as the shot progressed to the point they were both very nearly the same at dump point (6.8bar)

Asif

Adrianmsmith

ManicAsif

The measuring points are at different places In The system so I’d assume both are correct. The pressure is produced nearer the gauge. Yes I know it’s a closed system but without studying the exact flow path I dont see it as a problem and pressures can be different in different parts of the system due to the small apertures and pipe diameters at various places.

I’d personally rather see this difference than have an offset put on the electronic gauge .

Looking forward to the V2 lever being available so the main lever can slowly be lowered with the pump turning on as soon as the lever is moved.

This is what I’m manually doing now with the prototype lever.

Actually can’t believe how practical and repeatable it is. Very versatile.

ManicAsif

Adrianmsmith

Ok, 3 shots done:

Base seetings: Brew boiler = 98C; Group = 92.5C; PI = 2.0b

shot 1 - in 21g / out 38.5g - PI = 6.4s; Brew = 57.5s, dump at 6.8b (with puck screen)

Shot 2 - in 21g / out 37.1g - PI = 6.0s; brew = 51.9s, dump at 6.8b (without puck screen)

shot 3 - in 21g /out 40.0g - PI = 5.9s; brew = 36.4s, dunp at 6.8b (without puck screen, but ground slighly courser)

shot 4 for this shot i will adjust the grind ever so slightly to get around the 30-32s brew time

definitely getting better :) (incidently, shot 1 tasted alot better than shot 2) but shot 3 has been best so far today

I have just realised, have nearly gone through my 500g bag and will need to start all over again as the next bag is very different! well perhaps not very different but slightly darker

LMSC

ManicAsif shot 3 - in 21g /out 40.0g - PI = 5.9s; brew = 36.4s, dunp at 6.8b (without puck screen, but ground slighly courser)

This looks good. The other two shots are too long. I would recommend losing the puck screen and see how it goes. With 21g, 50+s shot and puck screen you would be over extracting. If you really like to keep the puck screen for that dosage and grind size, loosely tamp and see.

Cuprajake

I’d drop the boiler to 96 and the group 90 personally for medium up

LMSC

I wouldn’t pull 1:2.5 if >= medium. Unpleasantness may kick in at those ratios. Like Jake said, I pull at 90/96 for these roasts.

ManicAsif

LMSC

I will drop the temps for my medium-dark roast - but I am not sure what ratio you mean

I am less than 1:2 at the moment (21g in/40g out) - or do you mean a different ratio?

LMSC

ManicAsif You are doing almost 1:2. It’s fine. I was only saying a longer shot may not get the desired outcome. In your case, 21 / 53g would be 1:2.5.

ManicAsif

A much much better coffee day today. Pulled 4 shots today - each and every one has been delicious!

…and importantly very consistent!

pretty much the following:

in 21g /out 41.0g - PI = 6.0 s; brew = 32.5s, dump at 6.8b (without puck screen) - also changed group/brew temps to 90/97

So, guess it will be all change when I get my a) IMS 14/18g basket and the b) 14g basket

..but right now a very happy bunny!

Thank you for all your help guys

Adrianmsmith

ManicAsif

Send all new new gadgets back . Stat happy. 😎☕

What pi pressure have you settled on. I think more stable slightly above 2 bars. That rotary pump is a bit too efficient, but i like what I have set now.

ManicAsif

Adrianmsmith

i haven’t played with the PI setting yet, still using the factory setting of 2 bar

once I am comfortable with the basic operation of the machine, I will have a play around.

Blackbirdman

Before:

And after: 😍

Also received the flush lever with very clear installation instructions :). Super fast service!

Adrianmsmith

Ive also asked for a price for the black tray. 😎

Not sure about that book though 🙃😜🫣

Blackbirdman

Replacing the flush lever should be done when the machine is cool, ask me how I know ;).

I quite enjoy reading that book. Not that it told me a lot of new things, but still.

The finish on this drip tray is better I think. It sits a bit too snug but I think I can fix that.

Adrianmsmith

Blackbirdman

That machine really is cool 😎

But hope it didn’t hurt too much 🥰

ManicAsif

Blackbirdman

I got my flush lever in the post the other day, haven’t got around to fitting it yet.

letting the machine cool down is noted :)

which method did you use? I glanced at the instructions, and seem there are two methods suggested

Blackbirdman

ManicAsif I used the 1st method. It is really easy but do look for the right nut to be removed. Mine was on the left side and since the pin can only be removed via that side there is no need to remove both. (I removed the right one only to come to the conclusion that was not the correct side ;) )

Adrianmsmith

Blackbirdman

@ManicAsif

just a bit of hopefully useful info for you, :-) you don’t need it to fit the lever but in case you think there’s any risk…..

There’s no risk at all removing the back domed nuts and or the studs to get access,

The 4 domed nuts can all be removed. the whole lever / piston unit will just sit there. only saying this in case you were thinking its under spring pressure. if required the whole unit can be lifted out (in a few months when you feel the urge to look and add some moly 111 to the seals!!)

i added copper washers purely for cosmetic effect. in the early days i think the guys were using PTFE washers for the same. I considered titanium, then saw current prices!!

ManicAsif

Blackbirdman @Adrianmsmith

Thanks guys, just replaced - very straightforward :)

That said, I am quite dissappointed with the new lever. There is alot of sideways movement (i.e wobbly) though it functions fine - it looks quite industrial when compared with the stock one. (which was/is nicely machined)

I don’t understand why ACS couldn’t just engineer a rod that fits in the already existing hole of the stock lever - Ok, you lose some of the adjustment offered by the new one - but, this wobblyness is going to do my head in :)

I might just look to find some kind of 3mm diameter steel rod and refit the stock one

…unless of course, I have done something wrong and others aren’t getting the sideways movement

Blackbirdman

Adrianmsmith currently I don’t have washers in place. Is there any need for them? I also didn’t reapply glue to the studs which were removed. I was wondering if that is necessary?

Could you further explain the molykote remark? I have read about it a while ago but can’t fully remember….

Adrianmsmith

Blackbirdman

you do not have washers!! as i said :

Adrianmsmith i added copper washers purely for cosmetic effect.

you may think it looks shit!!!

Blackbirdman also didn’t reapply glue to the studs which were removed. I was wondering if that is necessary?

my opinion "as its not under pressure it is not necessary. purely belt and braces.

Blackbirdman Could you further explain the molykote remark? I have read about it a while ago but can’t fully remember….

sorry for mentioning moly!!

not absolutely necessary as the seals are excellent but some prefer to add a little lube periodically. period subjective as well.

you can either remove the shower screen and pull the lever (machine turned off) and add a smear of grease to the cylinder wall and the top piston just under the lever or

remove the whole unit just because you are interested what is inside (!) and grease the seals and inspect them directly.

—

in all cases ensure you are using the Food Safe silicone grease such as Molykote 111. this is the thick stuff, not the runny stuff to use technical terms!!

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