ACS Vesuvius Evo Leva

Adrianmsmith

Could you post photos and video otherwise we have no clue what you have or could have done. 😎😜

ManicAsif

Sorry, out and about with the grandkids at the moment. Will take a few pics when I get back home later tonight

but to answer a couple of questions

A) I had the stock flush lever, as per blackbirdman’s before and after pics above

B) the movement is where the flush lever is connected to the group head. Just seems the holes in the lever are ever so slightly too big, so the spindle that holds the lever in place with the circlip is loose (side to side)

It’s honestly not a big deal, but given how solidly built the rest of the machine is, it’s a shame to have a rattle in the flush lever

Blackbirdman

ManicAsif There isn’t any movement at all with my lever. Made a video:

I do have to agree that the stock one looks more sleek and fitting. This one is not as pleasing to the eye but the flush handles also aren’t helping. Still really happy with it since I got tired of touching a scorching lever ;)

ManicAsif

I have way more play than that

ManicAsif

Guys & Gals

Any thoughts on this?

Its certainly not a major issue, more of a minor quibble.

Given, Blackblackbird doesn’t seem to have the same level of movement, either I have fitted it incorrectly (though I don’t see how that would even be possible, as its such a simple retrofit) - or, my lever just has slightly bigger holes for the spindle at the base?

I don’t want to hassle ACS for such a minor thing, it I know it will irrate me over time :) - perhaps I can rig a simple fix

LMSC

ManicAsif The old small lever also wobbles a bit. It never bothered me, although I thought it is designed to give flexibility to the small lever as it rests against the lever handles swing arm.

You may consider adding silicone washers on either side, one on top of the pin and see if they help. 😊

LMSC

ManicAsif

Edit:

I won’t know if it is possible to add washers though!

Blackbirdman

ManicAsif hi ManicAsif, I checked mine again and was wondering if the lever was simply bent “a bit more”. See a picture below. The tolerances are very tight so there is simply only little room for the lever to move sideways. Perhaps yours has been bent a bit more giving it a bit too much room to move. If you want I could measure the width with a vernier calliper and you could compare…

DavecUK

You could try a piece or 2 of heat shrink

ManicAsif

Thanks guys

I don’t think there is enough room for any washers - but a heat shrink sleeve is a good shout.

I think I have some in the shed, will try that and see how I get on

winsonlin

I found that when the steam boiler is turned on, this part is very hot.

I wonder if it will cause damage to the Dosing coffee system?

ManicAsif

Blackbirdman

Hi, thanks for the kind offer of measuring up - but please don’t bother. I will take out ocer the weekend and take a proper look.

I think a heqt shrink shield or two, as suggested by Dave will help, or I may even be able to ‘bend’ the base to remove any play

…but thanks for the offer!

Inspirado

Quick q for all - how long between pushing the flush lever (or hitting the bottom of the lever travel) does it take for your pump to kick on? It’s an honest 4-5 seconds for me. Obviously this is not really that big a deal but just seems a bit long to me when I’ve seen other videos with it almost instantaneous

Could it be the pressure stat and slow response? Or software?

DavecUK

Inspirado Could it be the pressure stat and slow response? Or software?

My pump on the V2 kick on instantly the pressure in the brew circuit drops, so as soon as the water valve opens the pump comes on.

It’s difficult to know what the problem is with your machine, because as soon as the water valve opens, your pump should also come on. It won’t be software. Some questions:

when did it start doing this
did you undertake any works on the machine which coincided with this happening
Is the delay the same duration each time, or does it vary

It would be good to see a video of course (upload to YT and paste the link here. Some checks for you to perform

There is a small lever which presses the water valve open…push it backwards, how fast does the pump start
is there a very large gap between the pin that is pushed to open the water valve and the little lever? Upload a photo if you want

Other than that, there is not really any reason for a delayed response, unless, you have a sticky pressure stat. In which case the solution is replacement with the same exact model (and the reason I asked question 3 above) and recommended the tests..

Inspirado

DavecUK

Thank you that’s exactly what I needed to know - that there’s no software delay and never has been. I know now that it’s likely a stuck pressure stat (which I have a replacement for!).

For completeness - I can hear the pressure venting immediately upon dropping the lever (or pushing the flush lever), so I know it’s not related to slow actuation of the “vent” valve (not really venting I guess). The pump turns on 3-5 seconds after this “psssst.”

Answers even though you’ve already answered my primary question:

As long as I’ve had the machine - several months.
No, no modifications or changes
It’s relatively consistent, but I honestly don’t time it. I believe the delay is getting ever so slightly longer over the last few weeks, but my only indication is that it bothers me more.

Hugonl37

Question for the experts: I just received my replacement pressostat, but it seems to be different than the one I have installed on my V1.

The one I have installed is the CEME 5612:

And the one I received is the CEME 5412:

Now they seem to have similar specs except the 5412 does not have an adjustable deadband, it is at a fixed value. Can I use this one? Anything I need to do to it before installing?

DavecUK

Hugonl37 Where did you get it from, even if not ACS, I expect it will be fine?

Hugonl37

DavecUK

I bought it myself but somehow I managed to buy the wrong one.. I guess I could just try it, since voltage, amp and pressure are the same. Maybe deadband is set to fixed mid position 0.5? Do I need to adjust anything or tighten/loosen anything before installing?

Norvin

I replaced mine recently, posted about it here on 5th April. You will need to adjust the pre infusion pressure - take off the center Red cap, adjust in +ve direction, about 1 to 2 turns ( from memory) until pre infusion is about 2 bar.

Hugonl37

DavecUK
How do I do this? Is it a screw? I can only see the middle screw, doesn’t that adjust preinfusion? What is ‘expansion valve pressure’?

Adrianmsmith

Hugonl37

Scroll up this post. Mentioned several times .

Read around post numbers

3718

3757

3780

Also the red cap needs taking off the stat to get to the adjustment screw.

DavecUK

Hugonl37 How do I do this? Is it a screw? I can only see the middle screw, doesn’t that adjust preinfusion? What is ‘expansion valve pressure’?

It’s the middle screw on the pressurestat, marked + and - to raise or decrease preinfusion pressure respectively.

Don’t worry about the expansion valve, although if the pressure stat fractured, it wouldn’t hurt to unscrew the expansion valve adjuster 1 turn.

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