Bottled water label numbers?

smallblueplanet

We’re in a hard water area in Wiltshire. I’m thinking of buying a new machine, and am looking at the Profitec Go. So I thought it might be easier and less hassle to start with using bottled water. But what are the ‘numbers’ to look out for on the labels? Not necessarily aiming for perfection in the water, just something easy and less likely to scale up the machine quickly so I don’t have to feel guilty about not having descaled it. :D Because I won’t do it as often as I should of that there is no doubt.

So bottled water labels (or filter jugs?) what are the chemicals and their number ‘range’ to look out for. (Yes, I have read some of the other ‘water’ threads and have just become confused.) Thanks.

MediumRoastSteam

There’s a spreadsheet which can tell you what the impact will be as you key in those numbers. I think it is one the knowledge base articles and on @Rob1 ’s signature, I think.

Bottomline, if you are happy with a descale process at some point, stick with Volvic, or Tesco Ashbeck, or Waitrose Lockhills. They are not perfect, but it’s a lot better than tap water.

MWJB

For bottled water, Tesco Ashbeck, Waitrose Essentials Lockhills (currently the same) are in the ideal recommendation zone, at a push Volvic.

You’re primarily looking for a bicarbonate figure of around 50-75mg/L (which converts to 40-60mg/L alkalinity as calcium carbonate).

You could check your total hardness and alkalinity with your water supplier via a postcode search, then try a BWT Mg2+ filter, but you would be best advised to use a KH/alkalinity drop kit to confirm the alkalinity of the filtered water. E.g. this jug gets my 190mg/L water down to 70mg/L alkalinity…OK for brewed coffee & kettles, but a bit high for me to put into an espresso machine.

smallblueplanet

Thanks MRS and MWJB. I’m a bit interested but not so much that I’ll put masses of effort in. :D So I was just thinking that we often shop at Sainsburys or Lidl and how could I tell if their still water was worth paying for. :)

I was very surprised on looking at the water bottle labels that they have a ‘3 day use by’ time. How does water go off? I’m only thinking that I don’t change the water in the Gaggia tank very often (shame face now), I just top it up. Have I been risking cholera or some such all these years?

Edit: Can I presume the 50-75mg/L number is the calcium amount on the label?

MWJB

smallblueplanet Edit: Can I presume the 50-75mg/L number is the calcium amount on the label?

No, it is the number relating to bicarbonate. Water that has 50-75mg/L calcium will be far too hard.

I cant see any recommendation to drink within 3 days on the bottled water I have (San Pellegrino/Volvic), it won’t go off in this time. I guess if they have sport nozzles and people are drinking from the bottle that can introduce bacteria?

smallblueplanet

@MWJB Sorry it’s on the website info, I was looking at Sainsbury’s still water: “For best before / date: see neck of bottle. Store in a cool dry place away from strong sunlight and odours. Once opened, keep refrigerated and consume within 3 days. Best served chilled.”

How does the number relating to bicarbonate translate?

Table of Nutritional Information

Sodium 1mg

Bicarbonate 16mg

Sulphate 5mg

Nitrate 1mg

Dry Residue @ 180C 22mg

pH7.2

But it doesn’t say in how much liquid, presumably 100ml, so way above a 50-75mg/l ‘limit’?

Are any of the minerals ‘really’ important?

% NRV 100ml: Calcium 4mg Magnesium 2mg Potassium 0mg Chloride 1mg

MWJB

smallblueplanet That water is way too hard and has too much bicarbonate/alkalinity at 160mg/L bicarbonate. looks like Chase Spring water, this is hard UK water, sold by various supermarkets.

Bicarbonate is most important, the water will also have some total hardness derived from calcium & magnesium, but this has a wider tolerance.

brucewu

Haha, I totally understand how you feel! In hard water areas like Wiltshire, you really need to be extra careful about water quality when using a precision water purifier like the Profitec Go, otherwise descaler will become a “monthly ritual.” For bottled water, you should mainly look at these key figures (easy-to-remember version): Total Hardness: Ideally, keep it below 50-70 ppm (as CaCO₃). The lower the level, the less likely it is to form scale. The ideal range is 30-85 ppm.

Calcium + Magnesium: These are the main culprits for scale formation, so choose the lowest possible levels.

TDS (Total Dissolved Solids): Recommended around 50-150 ppm. Too low (close to 0) will result in a bland taste, while too high will easily lead to scale formation.

Alkalinity/Bicarbonate: Ideally, it should be between 40-80 ppm, which helps with taste and protects the water purifier.

pH: 6.5–7.5 is ideal.

Recommended bottled water (easily available in the UK): Tesco Ashbeck (or its sister brand, British Natural Mineral Water) – a long-time recommendation from many coffee enthusiasts, known for its low hardness and high cost-performance ratio.

Volvic or Harrogate (certain batches).

Highland Spring (check specific labels).

When buying water, always check the nutrition label on the back of the bottle, focusing on “Calcium,” “Magnesium,” “Total Hardness,” and “Dry Residue.” Regarding filter jugs: Many people have found that in the long run, filter jugs (especially BWT or Brita professional models) are more convenient and environmentally friendly than consistently buying bottled water. You can use a third-stage filter cartridge (specifically for reducing hardness) and change the water weekly, significantly reducing the burden on the machine. If your main priorities are “less hassle + less scale buildup,” I personally recommend trying a BWT filter jug first, supplementing occasionally with low-hardness bottled water.

MWJB

brucewu Alkalinity/Bicarbonate: Ideally, it should be between 40-80 ppm, which helps with taste and protects the water purifier.

I’ve never seen alkalinity as CaCO3 on a bottled water label, only bicarbonate as ion.

Alkalinity of 40-80ppm equates to bicarbonate of 50-96ppm…I’d probably want to stay under 75ppm bicarbonate for espresso.

Rob1

Reads like an AI response.

High TDS is irrelevant to ‘scale’. You will always get deposits or ‘dry residue’, but it’s only ‘permanent’ scale that is a concern. Calcium and Magnesium don’t form scale alone - bicarbonate alkalinity is required. This means that the higher the alkalinity, the lower the Magnesium and Calcium hardness should be to avoid scale and vice versa. Temperature is also a variable - you may have two boilers running at very different temperatures and scale build up will be different in both because of that. A steam boiler will concentrate minerals as it is used, and probably much faster than you’d think.

Steam boilers are generally easy to descale, and if you remove a fixture on top you can even pour the descaler in. Some even have drain valves on the bottom. So generally, you want to focus on reducing and managing scale in a steam boiler, and avoid descaling a brew boiler.

For espresso you need water with alkalinity to act as a buffer and probably want a minimum of 40mg/l alkalinity, this means you are looking for water with a low hardness.

MWJB has advised you on the water you can buy from supermarkets, and what to do if you want to try filtering your tap water instead and I have nothing to add there.

I will say I’d avoid using water with high chlorides and sulphates. Unlikely to be an issue unless you abuse the service boiler but you can get calcium sulphate scale which would be a nightmare. It may be genuinely permanent. If your boilers are made of steel chloride corrosion would be a concern, mainly in a service boiler.