Thank you both for confirming. @DavecUK - any good source of info for arriving at what you did for the coffee boiler? Or is it just basic PID knowledge that I am lacking. :). Cheers and Happy Holidays.

    limelight @DavecUK - any good source of info for arriving at what you did for the coffee

    I don’t quite understand the question. However, for a coffee boiler, you don’t want a PID over or undershooting, so you have to strike a balance between recovery times and these two things. Plus using something like a SCACE II for measuring brew temperature. I used to use something I invented almost 18 years ago, which was in effect a Scace II but it needed rebuilding every few years. I now have a scace II, but still check it with my older device.

    The temperature testing normally takes me 3-7 days, as I don’t test like they do in a Lab, I do real world testing and that takes a long time….e.g. I may leave a machine for 2 hours, run a shot, then 1 hour and do another…or leave it 2 hours then do 2 shots in a row etc.. Theres a lot of combinations to do….and you have to wait hours between a lot of them.

    The manufacturers don’t test like me, and to the best of my knowledge, no one else does either.

    Contact me

    • PatC replied to this.

        @DavecUK - I appreciate the details and walking through how you tested. I will update my machine with recommended settings.

        8 days later

        DavecUK

        I think the PL41PLUST has the same 300ml brass brew boiler as the Elizabeth. I was thinking of maybe trying these same PID settings P=0.2 I=0.07 D=10 in my PL41PLUST. I do not have a Scace tool for measuring brew water temp. If I understood correctly the Elizabeth brew boiler receives pre-heated water from the steam boiler, so then maybe these PID are not good for my PL41PLUST because its brew boiler receives only cold water input?

            PatC If I understood correctly the Elizabeth brew boiler receives pre-heated water from the steam boiler

            Not quite. The only time it receives pre-heated water from the steam boiler is during the steam pre-infusion phase, which lasts 10 seconds (configurable) if active.

            Give it a go with the PID settings. You have nothing to loose. I have experimented with the Pro-300 settings from Clive Coffee, and it works very well with the Elizabeth.

                PatC If I understood correctly the Elizabeth brew boiler receives pre-heated water from the steam boiler, so then maybe these PID are not good for my PL41PLUST

                I think they could be good for your machine….one of the things I asked for on Elizabeth was to limit the way the steam boiler applied pressure for steam preinfusion and asked them to introduce a short brew boiler fill to remove portafilter headspace. This prevents the brew boiler from being overheated by water from the steam boiler…hence the extra parameters on the V3 machine.

                This means it’s liable to be good for your machine, as the PID settings did not need to consider steam preinfusion as a factor.

                Contact me

                  MediumRoastSteam Give it a go with the PID settings. You have nothing to loose.

                  Many thanks to all persons who have replied to my question.

                  I have input these PID settings P=0.2 I=0.07 D=10 in my PL41PLUST. I set the temp to 94 deg and let the machine warm up during 30 minutes. Then I see that the temperature on the display is still fluctuating intermittently between 92 deg and 95 deg. I don’t know if this temp fluctuation on the display is really important or not. Because I do not have a Scace tool I can not check the brew water temp.

                      PatC Perhaps there are other differences in the machines

                      You can try playing around with the PID settings, perhaps increasing P a little try 0.03 or 0.04 and a little more on D, say 12.

                      Contact me

                      • PatC replied to this.

                          DavecUK You can try playing around with the PID settings

                          I have now P=0.6 I=0.03 D=7 in my PL41PLUST. The previously explained problem of fluctuating intermittently between 92 deg and 95 deg seems to be solved now. Still playing around with the PID settings. Espresso is a hobby isn’t it. I have no tool to check the actual brew water temp fluctuations, so I just try to judge settings by temp on the display and by taste.

                              PatC - also remember taste is king. Some machines don’t have temperature or pressure feedback, nor any means of monitoring such values whilst pulling a shot or idle, and they cost 10 times more than your machine. 😊👍

                                2 years later

                                Unearthing this thread as I’ve always been curious about the various tweaks. One I find a little confusing is EC. Mainly because I’ve seen various options. For instance I’ve seen Dave recommending 10 - I’m using this. I’ve also seen people recommending EC 8.

                                And now I stumble on a video from Lelit Insider, from 2 years ago, and he advises 12 !

                                Here are his recommendations:

                                the origilnal works, but if you want try this KPC 0,5 KLC 0,0 KDC 0,0 Bc 30 KP 20,0 KLS 0,0 KD 20,0 Bs 30 Ec 12 Es 0 F 01 TR 1

                                Anyone put a thermometer in the portafilter to see what the real offset is?

                                Thanks!

                                  pierrox - in the grand scheme of things… does it really matter? Increase the temp by 2C - do you like the coffee? Decrease by 2C… do you like the coffee? Essentially that’s all it is.

                                      MediumRoastSteam

                                      You’re right. I guess my ocd wants to know what is really the temperature I see on the pid. But then, if I wasn’t ocd, would I be into coffee? 😝