MuddyOne possibly, price and colour dependent 🤓 …. And you are in the UK 🤔
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
MuddyOne possibly, price and colour dependent 🤓 …. And you are in the UK 🤔
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
MuddyOne - I’ll quote myself again…. :-)
MediumRoastSteam MuddyOne - Interesting. That’s a possibility for sure. But… Logically speaking, it is not as simple. Because the machine should not heat up the longer it stays on idling, and that’s totally unrelated to the offset value. So you might want to tune/review the PID parameters - I mean, the Proportional, Integral and Derivative values. I have no idea how you do that on this new version, sorry.
My theory: You are barking at the wrong tree. Leave the offset alone. Essentially you are saying that your machine temperature target (what you want to set it to) is 8C (or whatever the unit is) lower than the pre-set programmed. If the pre-programmed offset is 12 (just saying that because apparently the factory default is +2, so group being 14C colder than boiler- i.e.: water in the boiler needs to be 108C in order to reach 94C in the group) is within normality. Yet, you are now setting this to -8 (read: boiler water needs to be 98C in order to deliver 94C at the group) - (if that’s what that is) is most likely throwing your PID controller out of the window and it’s erroring like crazy.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proportional%E2%80%93integral%E2%80%93derivative_controller
So before you think the offset will solve your problems, think again. If they sent you a brand new control box and that was never configured, it might have some crazy default parameters.
You need to do some research, and find out what good PID values are for your machine. Even if you had to copy them from the old Pro-700. A Google research should give you back what you need, including how to get into the advanced menu of your machine so you can set those up.
MediumRoastSteam nah I think I’m done doing research, it’s beyond my capabilities. I have spent enough time and realised that trial and error is not the way here. I’m waiting for their response and sending machine back. Thanks everyone for all the help here, machine is under warranty and it should be working out of the box.
Adrianmsmith it’s black and yellow 250g
I’m in the uk, Lincoln.
I’m not sure about the price especially that added postage costs may not be worth the hassle, I’m thinking if I can use them.
How much are they going second hand?
MediumRoastSteam I hear you and understand everything you said , but one thing- that setting off set is there to be adjusted by customers, it can be set by us from -10 to +10 and it’s not a hidden setting available only to manufacturers, it must be so for some reason?
You could jot down and publish all your settings to see if any are obviously wrong.
They will be close to but not identical to these for the synchronika i would imagine. See bottom. I do not have the exact settings for the go.
To enter the advanced PID settings mode on the PID :
Turn your machine off
Hold down BOTH the left and right button on the PID at the same time
While both PID buttons are pressed down, turn the machine on and wait for “F.01” to appear
From here, you are in advanced PID settings mode. You can change your machine to function in Celsius or Fahrenheit, switch between 15 and 20 amp power modes (on applicable machines), change boiler temperature offset, and adjust boiler temperature.
To change a setting, press the left button on the PID until the setting you wish to change is showing. Press the right button on the PID to view that setting’s current value, and while the current value is shown press the right and left buttons to adjust it up and down. To exit advanced PID settings mode and save your settings, simply turn the machine off and back on again.
Its not recommend, changing of the P, I, D, or b settings on any of the machines. Changing those 4 settings will change the way the machines reheat and maintain temperature.
The settings that we recommend changing if you are looking for something a little different are:
The setting for which temperature scale you would like to use, commonly shown in the PID settings as F.01. - C (celsius), and F (Fahrenheit)
The setting to change your machine for running in 15 amp or 20 amp mode (on applicable machines). This setting is commonly shown as F.02
The setting to change the temperature of the coffee boiler, commonly shown in the PID settings as T1.
The setting to change the temperature of the steam boiler, commonly shown in the PID settings as T2.
NOTE: We do not recommend changing P, I, D or b settings. These change the algorithms for reheating and maintaining boiler temperature.
Synchronika for reference
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
Adrianmsmith thanks , but like I said I’m not digging any further . I don’t know what I’m doing, I’m not 100% sure if these settings should be same as synchronika, “ close enough” is just not good enough for the money I paid for this machine. Not to mention that digging into these settings, if my trial and error is wrong by any chance and then they find out on their end I’ve been there they can point this out to me. Absolutely no reason to do that considering machine is under warranty. I’ll let them handle this until I’m satisfied.
Was just suggesting jotting down your current settings not changing any. Theres no flag set for" last time advanced menu was accessed!!"
1 you would know if its for some reason garbage settings
2 when it comes back you can see what is then set, if its been changed.
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
Adrianmsmith To enter the advanced PID settings mode on the PID :
He has a new version. It MIGHT not be the same as the old ones, I don’t know.
No idea I’ve never had to play with the offset on any machine I’ve owned.
Was just a suggestion seen as you were getting flash boiling.
Have you fitted a new board or is it still stock
I presume you can just do a factory reset,
Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -
Cuprajake Have you fitted a new board or is it still stock
He fitted a new board recently - which might be the culprit.
Oh I thought the new board was after my suggestion?
Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -
Cuprajake Oh I thought the new board was after my suggestion?
He had a new board fitted a few weeks ago according to what I read. It might’ve been the board was misconfigured. We got our wires crossed, sorry.
MediumRoastSteam I pulled a shot with new beans, 25s
They were roasted n 30.12 crema tells they are really fresh. I vacuum sealed in three bags rest of the bag, I need better way to transfer them from one bag to another.
But the shot was pulled at 92 degrees, tomorrow morning I will pull another, same grind setting but 94 degrees. What do you think?
MuddyOne - Maybe it’s my perception, but it feels, to me, the shot speeds up significantly halfway through. Maybe it’s not the beans, maybe it’s something else. The fact that you struggle to go past 30s feels strange to me. I really don’t know. Maybe someone with a machine similar to yours could post their video (E61, rotary pump).
Is there a way to do the vids private on YouTube they are really small on my phone
Can I ask dose, grind size, basket and what the gauge on the group says
Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -
MuddyOne What do you think?
Think you need a lever machine 🤓😋🤔🫣
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
MediumRoastSteam I will go half step lower then, temperature will thay same. 92
How did it taste don’t bother with looks. Even time
Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -