• Grinders

  • dont understand alignment process

Hello everyone

I have a Ceado e37sd

Two questions:

1- Why align both burrs?

What I mean is, lets say I mark the top burr only.

Shim the area opposite of where there is no contact.

Then test. All marks erased.

Why would I need to repeat this for the bottom burr?

If the top burr marker was erased, then it must’ve made contact with the lower burr as well?

Is it because we’ve leveled the top and now the top is touching the bottom - but not necessarily an even/full touch/contact because the bottom may also be tilted?

Therefore the top is touching, say 3′oclock of bottom and hence why top marker was erased?

So by repeating on the bottom, we ensure that the bottom is also making contact with the top and evenly?

I realize I may have answered my own question but further elaboration would be appreciated.

Second question:

2- I marked the top burr only, got it to chirp. I found everything was erased almost evenly. A solid 98% gone.

I then repeated the marker test on the bottom burr only.

Incidentally, and perhaps serendipitously, the bottom marked burr was also 98% erased.

Does that mean both burrs are aligned?

Have I gone through the steps correctly?

Thank you.

  • Sham replied to this.

    Yeah, the idea is to make sure that your grinding level, most shim the static burr first as this is usually enough,

    Where you’re at now sounds perfect. Just make sure you mark orientation so if you tske the burr out its in the same spot.

    How do you like the ceado?

    Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -

      hedonist222 Have you checked radial alignment too? I don’t see many people talking about that when mentioning burr alignment.

          Cuprajake

          I love it

          Im coming from a Baratza 270 wi

          Therefore you can imagine how spoiled I am with regards to retention (or lack thereof)

          I actually decided to keep the Baratza in case I didn’t settle with the flat burrs

          My apprehension was retention and having to clean out the chamber often and having to purge between grind settings change

          Turns out there’s really not much retained. 80% of the time it’s spot on

          20% of the time it’s under by 0.10 grams

          Notice how little is retained in the chamber after 60 days of use and approximately 5 kilograms of coffee

          And even after a thorough clean, it only took 2 shots to fill up those crevices



            Apologies for jumping on the thread but on the same subject…

            I’m going to look stupid here but have I screwed up by just fitting new burrs and using them as is? When I put the new burrs in the SJ, I literally tightened them all up and just started using it…

            Should I have aligned them?!

              Ernie1 Not if you’re having no problems….the problem with trying to alight burrs is what kind of misalignment do you have. in line with axis, of axis, top burr, bottom burr etc.. It’s hard to tell and some types of misalignment are not correctable.

              I made a start with some of my thoughts, but never got around to refining it or finishing it….it’s a work in progress. Take it all with a pinch of sailt, not even sanity checked.

              I was going to do an article on it, but I never got round to finishing it.

              There is also the issue of single dosing with commercial grinders never designed for it and burr distance requirements as well as speeds.

              Contact me

                  DavecUK

                  Really helpful, thanks. Definitely not seeing any issues so I’ll be taking the ‘if it ain’t broke’ approach!

                    hedonist222 Complete radial alignment is largely determined by manufacturing (if the centres of both carriers are not aligned with each other, not much one can do to bring them into alignment).

                    Aligning each burr radially (i.e. making sure that it’s centred on its carrier) is very easy - loosen (but don’t remove) the screws securing the burr to the carrier, then insert equal and progressively thicker shims at 3 (more or less symmetrical) points between the burr and the carrier, until all 3 ‘pinch’ equally. Tighten the screws, remove the shims. Do this after you have aligned axially, as you don’t need to move any of the shims ‘below’ the burr.

                    (Honestly, I wouldn’t bother, and just centre it by eye; there doesn’t seem to be much space between the carrier and the burrs in your E37SD in any case!)