**What is it?** This easy mod re-routes the water discharged from the over pressure valve (OPV) so that instead of being dumped in the drip tray and wasted, it will get reused in the machine. The mod is easy to do and doesn’t require any new parts so costs nothing to do. **Newer Mara X machines (confirmed since \~September 2021) are shipped already “modded” by Lelit.** So, if your machine is older, doing the mod will make it the same as the newer stock version (see photos and videos below). **Why do the mod?** Earlier versions of Mara X (since release and up to the second half of 2021) dump the OPV discharge water to the drip tray. Re-routing will (a) Reduce water waste; (b) Reduce the water that ends in the drip tray (less often to empty it); and c) Make the machine the same as the newer version that is currently being sold by Lelit. **Is my machine already modded?** To find out – empty the drip tray and put it back to the machine. Put the blind basket (the one without holes that is used for backflushing) in the portafilter and fit to the group. Lift the lever and watch the centre part of the back of the tray. If water is flowing into the tray (when you can hear the pump working) – the machine isn’t modded yet. If you don’t see water entering the drip tray – congratulations, you have a “modded” machine and can go read something else. **INSTRUCTIONS:** The mod is very simple. Once the cover is off and you understand what needs to be done, it can be completed in a few minutes. The basic idea is this: the machine has 4 clear tubes that currently lead water to the drip tray. We are going to re-arrange those tubes so that one of them (coming from the OPV) will lead to the pump inlet, while the other three stay the same (lead to the drip tray). Here are the four tubes at the top of the machine (two from the boiler, one from the solenoid valve and one from the OPV valve): [URL=https://i.imgur.com/DLXd7IB.png][IMG]https://i.imgur.com/DLXd7IB.png[/IMG][/URL] The next two photos are screenshots from a Lelit Insider video, showing clearly how the tubes from the above photo need to be connected (this is the end result, after the mod). This is how Lelit is currently selling the newer version of the machine. You can find the video itself [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCaCIMyIdQQ&t=92s&ab_channel=Lelitinsider). [URL=https://i.imgur.com/KBjaa5Y.jpg][IMG]https://i.imgur.com/KBjaa5Y.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=https://i.imgur.com/7O86N0Y.jpg][IMG]https://i.imgur.com/7O86N0Y.jpg[/IMG][/URL] **Here us what you need to do:** 1. Remove the top panel and the main part of the case as instructed in @"DavecUK"#1 video [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhZG5tcqj3A&ab_channel=DaveCorbey). If you want, you can also remove the panel separating the water tray from the main part of the machine. This will give you better view and access to the tubes and connectors, but the mod can be done without removing that panel if you prefer. 2. Identify the OPV valve (see pic above). Follow the tube that comes out of it. It terminates in a brass X connector. Disconnect the tube from the X connector and set aside for now. (see below tip for disconnecting the tube). 3. Looking at the machine from above, Identify the other 3 tubes (2 coming out of the boiler and one coming off the solenoid valve, close to the OPV valve). The two tubes from the boiler terminate in a blue plastic 3-way connector (Y-shaped). Disconnect the two tubes from the blue plastic connector. 4. The blue connector from step 3 above is now only connected with a short length of tube (a few centimetres) to a 4-way brass connector located right below it. Disconnect this short tube and the plastic connector from the brass connector. You have now freed the plastic connector and the short tube connected to it. Set them aside – they will be used in step 8. 5. The 4-way brass connector now has two free ports (one where the OPV tube was connected and the other where the short tube from the plastic connector was connected. The other two ports are still connected – one to the tube from the solenoid valve and the other to the tube leading to the drip tray). Connect the two tubes coming from the boiler (the ones you disconnected in step 3) to the two free ports in the brass connector. First part of the mod is now complete. 6. Go back to the tube from the OPV which you disconnected in stage 2. Re-route it behind the boiler to the other side of the machine. 7. Locate the pump inlet (see pic above). It has a tube connected to it, coming from the bottom of the water tank. Disconnect that tube from the pump inlet. 8. Take the blue plastic connector you freed in step 4, and use the short tube that was connected to it to connect it to the pump inlet. The plastic connector now has 2 free ports. Connect the tube from the OPV to one of those ports, and the tube from the water tank (previously connected to the pump inlet) to the other port. Now both the OPV and the water tank tubes are connected to the pump inlet. The mod is completed. Test the machine for leaks, put the covers back on and you are done. **Tips:** 1\. To remove the tubes from connectors you can insert a narrow object (such as a prong from a desert fork) into the tube and work around it to release the tube. The tubes are very strong and you won’t damage them easily. 2\. If you find the tubes hard to reconnect, dip them in boiling water for 30-60 seconds. This will soften them and make them easier to slide onto the connectors. 3\. If you want, you can replace the 3-way plastic connector with a [6mm 3-way brass connector](https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2487249.m570.l1313&_nkw=6mm+brass+3-way+connector&_sacat=0). This can be T-shaped or Y-shaped – it doesn’t matter. **An even simpler alternative** If you want to re-rout the OPV discharge to the water tank (as done in many other machines), simply compete the first part of the mod (steps 1-5 above). Then, instead of routing the tube from the OPV to the pump, rout it to the water tank. To do this, you will need to cut a small grove in the top of the plastic tank to make room for the tank cover to sit flush. **Disclaimers:** 1\. If you decide to do the mode, do it at your own risk. Make sure you understand what you are doing. I can’t take any responsibility for any damage or issues you may encounter. 2\. Some people reported they hear a change in the sounds of the machine after doing the mod (others, myself included, haven’t noticed it or are not bothered by it. As mentioned before, this is how Lelit now sells new machines, so clearly Lelit doesn't think this is an issue). I am not currently aware of any reports of issues arising from doing the mod, and as far as I know new machines are shipped “modded” as stock by Lelit. **Credits:** The idea to mod the machine and route the OPV discharge to the pump came from @"DavecUK"#1 . Many others have contributed their experience and insights to the information above. A big thank you to all of them. Finally, here is a short video showing the connections in my modded machine (note the blue plastic connector connected to the pump inlet is replaced in this video with a brass one): https://youtu.be/VRxt2bIrCOM

thanks for re-writing this, i got all the bits when it was first talked about (in the place that shall not be named) but havn't got round to doing it yet - will be a job to do over Christmas (honest)

@"siliconslave"#p1857 I think these instructions are much clearer, easier to follow and include the tips and insights that were picked up along the way. If you bought the brass connectors, I would follow the above and only swap the blue plastic connector with the brass one you have. I have seen a few people complain about plastic connectors failing (on other machines, not Mara X). The mod is really a no brainer, very easy and quick to do, and now that Lelit is doing it you know there is no reason not to. I think that once you do it you might kick yourself for not going for it earlier.

Merry Christmas greetings Thanks, saw this when you first posted the mod, I'd just got my Mara but with one thing and another it was another Round Tuit….. You are right, this version seems much easier for my old brain to assimilate, just done the OPV adjustment this week. Got the fittings in brass from evilBay, so a very timely Christmas break project on the cards

> @"CafeNoir"#p1904 You are right, this version seems much easier for my old brain to assimilate, just done the OPV adjustment this week. > > Got the fittings in brass from evilBay, so a very timely Christmas break project on the cards Let us know how you get on, and just give a shout if you need any help. It really is very easy to do it now with the steps above. And Merry Christmas to you too. :)

Lelit Mara X OPV Mod – Improved updated version (2022)

logjames

It looks like the tube coming off of the OPV is different. It appears to have a 90 degree connector which most likely prevents the hose from kinking against the inside of the top cover. Is this a separate connector or part of the hose?

Doram

logjames It looks like the tube coming off of the OPV is different. It appears to have a 90 degree connector which most likely prevents the hose from kinking against the inside of the top cover. Is this a separate connector or part of the hose?

Maybe upload a photo of the connector/hose you are referring to?

siliconslave

finally (14months after receiving the brass) i’ve done it 😁 The instructions are great thanks @Doram although i’ve no idea how you’d do it without removing the panel separating the water tray from the main part of the machine - that’d take some seriously scraped knuckels.

Did a couple of coffee-less runs and a few back-flushes and don’t seem to have any leaks so very happy!

Doram

siliconslave although i’ve no idea how you’d do it without removing the panel separating the water tray from the main part of the machine - that’d take some seriously scraped knuckels.

I have done it (twice) without removing the back panel and my knuckles are fine :-). 14 months is indeed a long time to be sitting on the fence, lol. I hope you will find it worthwhile to be on the other side.

shkob1

Had a leak with the brass connector but reused the plastic one and seems to work! I hear the different sound and sounds of water but can’t find any leaks so seem to be good! Thanks!
It seems like maybe my hoses from the boiler are shorter? I had to bend one of them, so you think that’s ok?

Odie

Hello coffee lovers.
This is my first comment on this forum. Humbly I would like to point some issues about this mode. Firstly I haven’t tried that and I am not willing to. Because as a marine engineer I can say that the pump will not be happy to work with the new piping system as aspect of fluid dynamics. The more fittings, valves, connectors, elbows etc. etc. cause more friction, energy loss by heat. They create more critical issues on the suction sides of the pumps, as like cavitation.
In our case, with new suction piping system, suction head of the pump decreases and pump may suffer to suck water properly compering with the previous original pipings because the OPV not all time keeps open, not feeds water continuously. In conculation we may obtain non-uniform flow and in long term shorter life of the pump, those effect the cup quality obviously. In my opinion the best option of this mod is re-routing the opv exhaust directly to the tank, instead of the pump suction.
I just wanted to share my thoughts, not advising any thing to anyone. Best regards to all.

DavecUK

Odie Welcome to the forum….

With espresso machine vibration pumps, it has been common practice over the years to route expansion valve output back to the inlet of the pump. many manufacturers have done this, some have routed back to the tank as you suggest. Both solutions appear to work fine.

Doram

Odie umbly I would like to point some issues about this mode. Firstly I haven’t tried that and I am not willing to.

Lelit Insider released a new video showing the old and new water circuit, and instructions on how to change the old routing to the new (this mod).

PC202

Hi,

I just did this and have a small leak from the plastic three way connection that feeds the pump. Pretty sure it is coming from the connection to the pump with the shortest bit of silicone pipe.

I have dried it all off, it thankfully was only a few drops.

what is the best way to fix this please?

Also when I opened the machine I noticed that the connection from overflow valve had a bit of sediment, is this anything to worry about? I bought the machine second hand and know it was descaled about a year ago- the seller said only Tesco water used- I feel they are trustworthy. Photo of sediment attached.

Thanks!

MediumRoastSteam

PC202 - not sure what that picture is… but the only way to fix a leak is to make sure it’s water tight. If the plastic three way valve is cracked, then replace it with a copper one. Try emailing lelit (care at lelit.com) or try to source the three way connector elsewhere.

As for the sediment… Ashbeck will scale. It has calcium in it.

PC202

MediumRoastSteam thanks for your reply. I understand, I have ordered some more of the hosing. So will try that, fingers crossed.

Thanks for the info on the calcium in the water, that makes sense.

ps: On the off chance you read my previous reply- sorry I didn’t catch your drift- I was very tired.

PC202

Small update in case anyone runs into the same issue, the hose connected to the pump had a slow leak after this mod- I suspect I was a bit too keen separating the hoses from the connectors- new silicone hosing fixed the issue. I bought the hose from Amazon and only suffered one morning without espresso 😂

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