Hi all, I have a Vesuvius, which has died, it tripped my fusebox and then now power at all. I have checked, and the power is getting into the machine but doesn’t seem to pass through the socket where the lead attaches - I’ve checked and no power in the machine either (used a wand).
has anyone had a similar issue?
Any help much appreciated guys.
2019, the power adapter goes into a little silver box, if that helps, the newer type I think
Check the wires leading from that little silver box to check they haven’t been arcing and check the pins insode the silver box.
With it unplugged see if you can do a resistance test on the box inputs and outputs.
With the USA machines, I am not sure, but check and see if there is a fuse anywhere, as I don’t think you use fused leads or outlets do you?
DavecUK don’t think you use fused leads or outlets do you?
I think that’s a UK thing and maybe others which adopt that system. I’m yet to see a fused outlet or fused socket in the EU Schuko world.
Thanks I’ll check Dave, I’m in the UK, I’ll check, it’s a European model, and can’t see a fuse. Appreciate the support, thank you.
Hello Dave, I had a friend come down and test, the supply lead had failed. I tried another lead and tested. The machine is not powering on but I have 240 vaults going out of the silver box. When I switch the on/off switch (near the water bottle feed) it drags the supply down and there is no potential difference between live and neutral, but there is prior to turning the on/off switch. Does that make any sense at all?
BobbyBarista Hello Dave, I had a friend come down and test, the supply lead had failed. I tried another lead and tested. The machine is not powering on but I have 240 vaults going out of the silver box. When I switch the on/off switch (near the water bottle feed) it drags the supply down and there is no potential difference between live and neutral, but there is prior to turning the on/off switch. Does that make any sense at all?
Let me clarify
BobbyBarista there is no potential difference between live and neutral, but there is prior to turning the on/off switch. Does that make any sense at all?
Not sure what your saying, are you saying there is voltage from live and neutral, until you switch off the on/off switch, after that there is none? (Is the on/off swtich lit)
Hi
The supply lead, one of the pins was loose. Yes I replaced it.
Neither of the green switches light up.
When both green switches are off we have 220v between L&N and 220v between L& Earth and Ov N &Earth
If we turn on green rocker switch near the water inlet and test again we have 220v between L& Earth but measure nothing between L&N. If we then test between N&Earth I have 220v. Therefore the L &N are now somehow at same potential (voltage)
Does that help?
@BobbyBarista if you are getting 220v between neutral and earth when you switch the green rocker switch on then it looks like the rocker switch is not making across the neutral terminals. I would disconnect the switch and test for continuity across the switch. The way to look at it is that the circuit is made with the voltage passing through the switch and the circuits then returning back to the neutral, because the neutral is Broken due to the switch not making the neutral is like an extension of the positive 220v. Hope I have explained this ok and it is of some help.
I had a similar problem once with a neon switch for a water heater. I replaced the switch and all worked. Funny enough, that happened to me on two occasions, on two different houses. Maybe this type of switch is more prone to eventual failure?
Hi all, thanks for your help so far, we tested the power into the machine and the neutral was not passing through the power lead socket (the little silver box). It appears there’s a fault in that little silver box. Would anyone know if I can order a replacement part please. Thanks again
