On the other side the screw is riveted. Only possible way is to find the proper tool that can get through this U shaped hole on the relay and remove the nut.

The hex nut is a 7mm but it needs a tool that has a thin profile in order to get into the hole. I think I found it on Amazon.

    repetto74 The hex nut is a 7mm but it needs a tool that has a thin profile in order to get into the hole. I think I found it on Amazon.

    Yes, I have various thin sockets that would fit..although I just think a deep socket set will do, I don’t think you need specialized thin wall stuff.

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      I finally received the replacement SSR. Format factor is a little bit smaller than the original black one. I have probed pin 1 and 2 of this new SSR and there is no continuity compared to the assumed faulty one.

      I can safely confirm now that the SSR has failed in the closed position.

        repetto74 The Gavazzi is a very good SSR indeed ACS use Gavazzi ultra hi speed proportional SSR (in the Falcon I) and genuine Crydom in other machines..

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          Well that didn’t do the trick unfortunately. I still get the SSR power light permanently on with this new SSR replacement and of course steam overpressure when constantly heating.

          I probed the new SSR out of circuit and I do not have a connection between pins 1 and 2 compared to the original black relay. Quiet puzzling here, I probably have multiple faults. Original SSR is busted but the PID control box may be also at fault. With a good SSR I should NOT get the power light immediately ON as I turn on the machine. PID is sending constantly the 12V to drive the relay ON. Damned.

            Well it could be indeed the temperature probe but when I probed it out of the boiler it looked totally fine. I had a resistance of 60k and this resistance was decreasing when the sensor was heated in the palm of the hand. I really could not identify any issue there.

            Also the fact that the relay is powered as soon as I turn on the machine let me think that the temp sensor has nothing to do here but this is a PID fault (keeps piloting the SSR and turn it ON constantly).

            The original SSR may have fried when the PID failed and kept it ON for a long time. Those relay just get burning hot when powered.

            Any part here is not just a few bucks. Better at this stage if I gave this to a technician who can point to the faultly components. The new SSR I have it so this one will not be in the replacement parts list.

            6 days later

            I took my chance and ordered the Gicar PID control box.

            Replaced the box and now the Mara X is running again like a charm. No more steam overpressure.

            I had a double fault then. The PID control failed and kept the relay ON for a long time which has probably killed it also due to extreme heat pulled out by those SSRs.

            Very disappointed on the quality of the electronic. This machine is just 8 month old, still under warranty but shipping costs to the repair center is just prohibitive and far above what I paid for those spare parts.

            I will ask anyway to the seller if I can have the warranty cover at least for what I paid in parts :-)

            Thanks again for your help!

            I did suspect the Gicar Box, but it’s a much more expensive item…

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            repetto74 Interesting, my Mara X purchased in 2021 has the Carlo Gavazzi SSR, not your black colored one. I saw a video on youtube from a Lelit reseller in the US say that the Mara X’s over the past year or so have been shipped with the black SSR that you have and that those have been failing at a high rate.

            I have been having heating issues with my Mara X as well. After addressing the temperature probes and Gicar, I suspect my SSR failed as well. I have a replacement coming soon and can confirm after swapping in the new one.

                fl13dl1c3 you can test the SSR pretty easily with a multimeter. If you probe pins 1 and 2 you should read a high resistance in megaohms and same for pins 3 and 4. If you have a continuity/very low resistance between 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 then the SSR is busted.

                  3 months later

                  repetto74

                  Did you end up finding the right tool on Amazon to remove the SSR from the bracket? If so, is there any chance you could let me know what you ended up ordering?

                  I’ve been going mad trying to remove my busted SSR, I even tried my luck on a deep socket from Amazon after scouring my local Home Depot but no luck!