Are these the ones people use or do you recommend any other?
I can’t seem to get rid of unpleasant harshness and dryness
I personally wouldn’t worry about the coffee storage too much yet, you need to understand what the issue is to begin with. Coffee storage can affect things but I don’t think that dramatically especially if the beans are still relatively new. Fresh beans shouldn’t be going stale within a month.
That said, your issues have all the hallmarks of stale beans but perhaps there is another issue. As others have suggested, you need to look at one variable at a time.
MuddyOne Are these the ones people use or do you recommend any other?
One variable at the time. You don’t even know what the issue is yet. One bag of fresh beans (it doesn’t need to be square mile red brick, but as this is what you are using it makes sense to stick to it) and go from there. You want to achieve first drops between 4 and 7 seconds, total time in 30s. 18g in, 36g out.
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Things I’ve noticed this with aside from stale beans:
Some burrs also do this. If the percentage of fines is low, the shot will accelerate quickly as soon as the puck starts to erode.
Puck prep: distribution of fines through the puck affects how they migrate. A shot will run slower initially if all of the fines are at the bottom of the puck. The basket clogs and the flow accelerates as the fines exit. If the fines are higher in the puck. with some coffees, the puck resistance increases over time. Good distribution and a consistent method is key to dialing in and getting repeatable results with a given grinder and burr set.
If you can get good shots out of some beans and then these are pants I’m calling beans, that or user error
It’s not the tools at fault
Get something easy to use like Horsham
https://www.horshamcoffeeroaster.co.uk/products/workhorse?variant=2002678723
Traditional taste, easy to use, consistent too.
Did you look at the flash boil?
I have a feeling you’re not listening to what you are being told, which is what happens in threads like this. We go round in circles till you get pissed off with not getting the answer you want.
All the equipment you have is more than capable of making great coffee
May have missed it but what waters in the machine?
Sorry to be blunt but there’s been millions of threads like this.
Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -
MuddyOne given you are getting some good shots with certain coffee types, I think so also. It’s a shame you can’t recall the coffee types you do enjoy. Knowing some of that would help identify if there is a trend in your preferences.
What I shared above was just experience, for sake of broadening knowledge about what other factors can contribute to how flow rate accelerates.
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See below my totally unscientific method without purchasing devices to fit to your portafilter !!
What i will say after doing this just now, you must be fairly high if you are noticing steam.
See half way through where i get to around 102 degrees. Very little evidence of steam and pressure only around one bar or less.
Starting point with tape was to create flow restriction.
End of video shows checking calibration at 100 degrees in open boiling water.
Befor anyone says this shows the Evo to be reading low, please bear in mind im shifting more volume and flow than on a normal shot. May try later on a genuine shot just to see what im actually brewing at.
@MuddyOne where are you located, your welcome to borrow this meter if it could be any use what so ever.
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
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LMSC I was referring to a rapid acceleration after a very slow start. I have high-uniformity burr sets that do that when dialed in for traditional espresso.
The outfalls are larger than most espresso burrs, so these need to be 50 microns or less from burr touch to get into traditional espresso range. Ditting 804 machined burrs do this also.
Cuprajake I’m listening my friend, I’m awaiting response from the retailer to see what they can say about that overheating and excessive steam, there is only so much I can do at this point, so for now I’m trying to discuss other potential issues. I have been doing my research about flash boiling too.
People come back to this thread and post me further suggestions so I carry conversation, no need to get pissy :)
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Pl get a bag of Blackcat’s Chocolate Point. It is a nice coffee and easy to dial in as well. 😊
Edit:
I also recommend you keep a log of your coffee — roaster, coffee, temp, grind size, what worked, didn’t.
Thanks but I think il get myself such device for future it’s handy,I’m getting a lot of steam like from boiling kettle .
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MuddyOne - for reference on my coffee today. It was from Darkwoods - Crow Tree. Medium dark. Roasted 11 December - I’ve been drinking this over the past week. Seems to be a blend of American coffee (Peru, Bolivia, Colombia and Honduras)
Machine: Lelit Elizabeth (vibe pump, slower ramp up)
Grinder: Niche Duo, setting 7.
Basket: VST 20g
Dose: 19g
Pressure: 10 bar -> 9 bar (noble infusion)
At 8s, starts dripping. Shot finishes at 33s, 38g out.
I already ordered another bag of red brick as per other suggestions, I wonder, only wonder if adjusting off set to negative value would fix the overheating problem. I mean there is a reason why negative off set exists right?
Still I will hit b&q and screwfix tomorrow and see if I can wired thermometer before ordering online.
Sorry if ive missed it any you already posted but, have you got a video showing your situation, steam etc.
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
Yeah I think it’s been auto deleted after couple days.
That steaming is happening above 92 degrees with off set at 2. It does not happen after 30 minutes of turning on machine,rather after 1h. 10s after putting lever up usually gets back to normal.
Ok, so assuming your kitchen isnt at 5 degrees C and 80 percent humidity ( 😘 ) i see what you mean.
Have you checked that water temp with milk thermometer as it runs in the cup.
Dont forget especially if tou get a “cheap” thermometer to “calibrate ” it at 99.99 degrees 😎
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
Adrianmsmith I will get thermometer tomorrow, I have milk one but it’s not calibrated lol :)
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MuddyOne wait wait wait!
Your machine… You said it was at 94C…
But look closely at the video before it starts drawing water… It reads 97C? Could this be the cause of the steam?
What’s going on?
Yeah , it was for the most part.
Then I’ve been doing some more testing, I’ve been setting machine to 90,91 degrees as stated above the problem is no longer there around these temperatures. Then I set temp to 97 to see if even less water and more steam will be coming out, I just uploaded one random video to show the issue, temperature is set to 94 degrees with +2 off set for most of the time.
And another update, just had my machine on for over hour but set off set to -4 with 94 and the issue is not here anymore.
What is the manufacturers suggested offset for that machine.
They’ve usually calculated what is required for proper operation at the group .
Also, What do you mean by offset is +2 “for most of the time”
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
Cuprajake sorry I owe you apologies then, I through all comments again and I honestly missed your link you posted, in avalanche of comments it happened.
Well I have two questions then, my machine allows only to be set to 99 not 100 degrees , is that ok for this calibration?
I assume that off set setting in that case should be set to zero?
I meant that temperature is set to 94 for most of the time.
Off set is by default to +2 .
Yeah, .
For me temp or more temp stability is key,
Unless you have a scace device you will never know for certain what the temp is
But like grind size as long as you can assign a number to that setting, and it’s repeatable, it’s just a number.
Once you sort your temp it could be something a simple as that, while I still think it’s the beans
Go back to basics, get temp sorted use the stock basket, it will allow a coarser grind, put the vst in the drawer for a while. Get a repeatably prep system and go from there, even if it means buying 2kg of the same bean to get used to what your changes do.
I’ve never been a massive fan of square mile.
Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -
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The only info i have without a Google is for the synchronika . Do you have the similar info for your machine?
So for the synchronika the offset is set at 15 degrees C by ECM. I once did a video showing how good the syncka was but cant find it now . I never had reason to change the manufacturers settings .
What was yours originally set at.
I will say again for clarity the below is for synchronika
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.
I mean such device with wires is not that expensive , 20-30£ unless it’s not accurate in that price range. I can also always borrow one from my workplace we use them .
If that is correct then my off set is meant to be -6 at -5 it already starts flash boiling and you can hear paper tearing/steam sound.
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Adrianmsmith - you’ve missed a few posts :) - most likely in the other thread.
Essentially… ECM/Profitec in their infinite wisdom have decided to pre-code an offset in the machine. What’s wrong with zero? But no… let’s just think of a value and add there… 42 anyone? In Fahrenheit maybe? 🫠The user can now add or subtract 10 from whatever their preset offset is. And yep… your guess is as good as mine on what this pre-coded offset is…
Post: https://coffeetime.freeflarum.com/d/3070-profited-drive-lever-weird-noise/53
Read on… 🥳
Adrianmsmith no I haven’t found such info in manual , just this . It says the default value is 0 but mine came with +2
MuddyOne I mean such device with wires is not that expensive
As Jake said, you’ll have an idea… but it will be by no means accurate. Just google Scace-II device.
And as Jake said, it’s just a number. It matters not. But your machine should not be overheating after being idle for 1 hour. It’s not an HX machine. You might reduce the temp, but it might mean your water is now too cold at the start (I.e: sour coffee).
Your retailer should test your machine with a scace device and go from there.
MediumRoastSteam I did the off set calibration posted by Jake . I’m of course still waiting for retailer to come back but I can try to see where this calibration takes me, if it’s true and correct then my off set is meant to be at around -6 if it was at + 2 then no wonder I’ve been getting constantly bitter espresso.
MuddyOne I did the off set calibration posted by Jake
Not sure what that is. What I am saying is… you machine seems to be overheating after being idling. Change the offset, do what you want… but if the trend is the same (temperature increases when idling) then you got to ask yourself what’s the temperature after 35 minutes from cold?
This is not normal for a dual boiler machine of this class.
Anyway, good luck sorting things out. There are a few issues going on. Overheating is only one of them.
Didnt realise there were 2 threads. i give up!!
The offset is to take account of the system as a whole, and the fact that the measuring point is not in the correct position as designed.
It shouldn’t need correcting in normal circumstances.
And adjusting it whan theres a fault isnt the way to go, repairing it is .
Without some numbers to go on now this is all a waste of time
Ade Smith. ACS Evo Leva v2. Kafatek Flat max 2, ssw 2024. Mazzer Philos, Craig Lyn HG-1 prime., WW key mk1.