Well, yeah, but it seems to be reliable and the only way to get the temperature to normal again.
On another note, the machine has now been warming up from a cold start for about an hour on the “steam mode” or the 0 position on the switch and at temperature setting 2 and the manometer for the steam pressure reads around 0.75 bar. I checked the manual and it should be, according to the manual, between 1.3-1.6 bar.

    No, it doesn’t, but I don’t use the steam mode, it’s just a test I did. But to be honest I am a bit afraid that the problem could be with something that may affect the machine long term and cause some real damage.

    RobertRo101 this is what I will do going forward: leave the machine to warm up without portafilter,

    Not sure about the rest, but is there a specific reason for you to insist on warming up the machine without the portafilter in the group?

      I am not insisting to do that. I don’t actually want to have to do that. But this way, after the warm-up I can insert the cold portafilter for 2-3 minutes and drop the group temp a bit and also the brew temp, and it seems, at least on the thermometer reading, that the temp is more stable this way. I did another test from a cold star-up with the pf locked in and it still was a bit too hot, 92.5 was the reading and the extraction was around 93-93.5.

        If I am reading this thread right you have only had this machine for a short time? If so, and you are unable to reach satisfaction with the workflow or the machine, I would return it and get something else. I would not want to put up with that. Very frustrating for you. I am hopeful this gets resolved, because this is supposed to be fun and satisfying. Temperature stability is important. I have an Elizabeth, and it is rock solid. Keep us posted, but I would have a low threshold for returning it if you are not satisfied. There are so many good machines.

        RobertRo101 - in all honesty… short of thinking the PF can act as a heat sink,I don’t understand how the relative low mass of brass is influencing thermal stability in such way.

          I don’t know either, I can make a video for you guys to show what I mean, but I just made a coffee and I will let the machine a little time, around 20 min, to stabilize.

          @dndrich unfortunately, it has just passed the 30 day return period, I think it turns 6 weeks on Monday:))
          In all seriousness, I was very very satisfied with the machine and the temperature stability and range first, coming from a 41TEM it was amazing, but something happened, and from a smart Mara it turned into a much dumber Mara in the past week.

            I have warranty, I have spoken with the retailer, but they had to speak to Lelit in Italy because they did not know what was wrong from what I described to them. A guy from there told me that “a 2-3 degree difference is not that bad”:). But I was referring to the return period.

              RobertRo101 Well, depending on where you bought it, perhaps they will make an exception. That assumes you might want to return it. If you bought a slightly more expensive machine, that might make it palatable for them. Just a thought. If you are going that route, then you might want to get on it this week.

                Well, that’s the second call of tomorrow’s morning. Thing is, I don’t really want to replace it, it grew on me and this setback is not that bad if it is fixed. I was enjoying it a lot while it was running normally. And with this budget, which was already stretched enough:) I could only opt for a high-end single boiler like ECM Classika PID, but I am yet to find good tests for its temperature stability or the Minima, but that would have to wait a few months to get by budget in range.

                  RobertRo101 Yep I understand. You might consider the Elizabeth. Just a bit more money. Doesn’t have that sexy curb appeal, but you cannot beat the performance for the price. Mine has been amazing.

                    This video should explain it a bit better:
                    (sorry if shaky, I just realized that 4k60fps doesn’t have movement stabilization)
                    Essentially, after inserting the portafilter, the temperature will drop and stay between 91.4-91.8 and stay there, add 0.5 degrees to that number, and that is the average temp during the first extraction. This temp will eventually increase if the portafilter is left there long enough (IDK how long exactly, I observed this phenomenon after a cold start with the pf locked since the begging), to around 92.5-93, again, add 0.5 to that to get the average stable brewing temp.

                    As I said above, the temp I get without the portafilter is 93-94, after adding 0.5, the average temp, in this case, is 93.5-94.5 during brewing, which is very high for the lowest setting and was not the case with the machine in the first weeks of use, and it fluctuates much much more than the extractions using the processes described above, which are very stable.

                      RobertRo101 - What happens if:

                      • You do exactly what you did above;
                      • After 20 minutes, come back to the machine;
                      • What will the reading on the thermometer be?
                      • Make sure your machine is not in standby mode.

                      At a guess, your machine is in “Brew priority mode”. As soon as you lift the lever to brew, the manometer will start climbing to 1.25 bar. Is that right?

                      If you then repeat the same process in “HX” mode, potentially your manometer will always be around 1.1 bar or so. Is that right?

                      The only conclusion I have from the video is that your portafilter is becoming a heat sink - but eventually will stabilise with the rest of the group, hence why I ask the question above.

                      If the machine wasn’t behaving like that from original, let’s face it, there’s a problem somewhere. It’s unlikely to be water as the machine is so new - Unless your water is very very hard and there’s some scale on the probes already.

                        No, the machine has standby mode disabled. And will test what you said after it has cooled down so I can do a proper cold start.

                        1. Yes, that is the steam boost and it works, it actually goes above 1.25, depending on how many coffees I make, it can go up to 2 bar
                        2. When I tested HX mode on temperature 2, the highest, the steam pressure was at 0.75 and in the manual it says it should be at 1.2-1.6 bar
                          I don’t think it is the water, I have a reverse osmosis system that we use as our daily drinking water and used it for the past 2-3 years on other machines without any problem and never had scale built up, and we also tested the water and the result were great

                          RobertRo101 When I tested HX mode on temperature 2, the highest, the steam pressure was at 0.75 and in the manual it says it should be at 1.2-1.6 bar

                          And, when you pulled a shot, did the needle move to cause a boost?

                            Just did what you asked @MediumRoastSteam and after 20 minutes with the portafilter inserted (of course, after the machine is already warmed for at least 45 minutes and standby disabled, brew priority and temp setting 0), the thermometer reads 92.2 and the pf is as hot as the group, it literally burns if you touch it for more than 1 second, and also the wood handle is hot, not very hot, but hot.

                            RobertRo101 - So in a way the machine is stuck in Brew priority mode rather than HX mode? (I.e.: There’s no boost in HX mode)