- Edited
As jake said, be very careful with the elbow. As Jake said, be very careful with the elbow. Unless the spanner fits the flats perfectly, you will damage it.
As jake said, be very careful with the elbow. As Jake said, be very careful with the elbow. Unless the spanner fits the flats perfectly, you will damage it.
Ok… seems like its slowly moving now. Jeez, these italians make things difficult.
Thanks for the tips!
I had to hold like hell the nut on the external part of the steam wand or when trying to unscrew everything was turning around.
Finally!! Elbow out, nut out, steam wand out.
There’s a little bit of scale in that elbow 🤯
Now it’s time to clean it up completely, add some PTFE and get everything in place again.
Thank you so much for all the tips, you can’t imagine how much I appreciate it.
jglez3 I went bananas in the factory about permanent threadlock 8 months ago. They should no longer be using it on prosumer machines and are using lorxeal 18 -10 which is expensive, or loctite 542 med strength.
I remind them of it every visit including this one. I also had them move to a food safe silicone lubricant of superior quality 90 euro per Kg (trade price). As you can imagine I’m super popular. Especially as I moaned about something else on the lever slow release system and had all the machines changed. Went down like a lead balloon with Paolo, but the workers building the machines were 100% behind me and just got on with it. Of course if anything goes wrong at the exhibition Paolo will be waiting to pounce. 😉
Well… my Minima is finally fixed! Thank you again Dave, Jake and Abcan for your help.
The first time has not been easy. I hope I don’t have to open it again, but at least I know how to do it.
Now… Once I had everything PTFEd and assembled, I made a coffee and when I was going to steam… leaking on the external nut that connects to the steam wand. Internal fixed, external leaking…
Apparently, when I was unscrewing the elbow part it unscrewed a little bit that nut too. So… disassemble everything again, put some PTFE on that part and assemble for a second time, start the machine to check if everything is ok… and it is.
Now it’s done with PTFE It should never leak again. Also, it might be worth reading my knowledge base post about that type of compression steam valve and how to use it properly..
Ovidiu my machine only came with one tip (2 wholes) so I am wondering if you could share where/what steam tip works on the minima, and how would I unscrew the old one? It looks so seamless to me, it didn’t even occur that one could change it.
They do unscrew, a little while back the steam tips were being put on with threadlock by the manufacturers workers, or the wand manufacturer, until I went bananas (because of the utter stupidity), so it might be hard to remove if it’s an older machine.
Would appreciate some advice on an issue I’ve encountered with the Minima’s otherwise great steaming capabilities.
After closing off the steam knob carefully (as per the forum’s own compression valve instructions - thanks @DavecUK), there continues to be a hiss and slight bubbling from the steam tip afterwards for up to a minute or so: Video
I took apart the valve and found a small crack in the side of the pin holding the teflon seal (picture) so swapped in the hot water valve pin in the hope that it would fix it.
While it slightly improved it, the overall problem persists which I assume means the valve seat has become deformed by overtightening from the previous owner (which may well have damaged the end of the pin also). I tried another working steam valve pin to double check it wasn’t just the first two, but this didn’t fix it either.
FWIW I’ve tried my best to take a photo of the inside of the valve but it proved too much for my phone camera and photography skills, apologies for the quality.
Does the valve seat sound like the culprit and should I replace the whole valve / try my luck with a valve seat reamer?
Thanks
FadedFrontiers Does the valve seat sound like the culprit and should I replace the whole valve / try my luck with a valve seat reamer?
Swapping with the water valve should solve the problem, but you need a new valve stem, as the cup holding the teflon has split. This is usually due to closing too hard, which you may have done in the early days?
The stems are inexpensive and fairly standard items. You can use a brass one, the one you have looks like Zero lead brass because of the colour, or perhaps it’s chromed?
DavecUK Swapping with the water valve should solve the problem, but you need a new valve stem, as the cup holding the teflon has split. This is usually due to closing too hard, which you may have done in the early days?
The stems are inexpensive and fairly standard items. You can use a brass one, the one you have looks like Zero lead brass because of the colour, or perhaps it’s chromed?
Thanks for the quick reply - that’s what I thought and I did swap in the hot water stem to test it but the issue is still there (I said pin in my previous post but meant stem).
Edit: just reread your reply - I originally thought you meant just the swapping stems, will swap valves and order a new pin, thanks!
I’m very sad/frustrated/angry to report that my Minima has been delivered to some guy, with my same name, in Florida.
Meanwhile I sit here in California wondering what the hell happened…
🤬😭
oh no! Hopefully you’ll get it sorted out. Good luck!
So I’ve been looking around at toggle legend options and think it is going to be tricky, so any other ideas welcome! @Verion
The main custom options seem to be for vintage cars, e.g. https://www.classicgent.co.uk/products/toggle-switch-tag-tab-labels-classic-car-boat-land-rover-any-text?variant=41171843580043¤cy=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAjw15eqBhBZEiwAbDomEoNOvtCisG8DAEdPbGevOzc6b9WVBXW-wFJFioIw-YJngiyNE5b4cBoCLqQQAvD_BwE
There are also the more traditional ones, but these won’t be specific to boilers and brewing.
Im wondering if there might be somewhere that would stamp some blank metal plates, but then they would likely want a min order etc etc.
I quite like the ones in the first link. I’ve found a place that will laser cut the same shape that is currently on the machine in 2mm thick aluminium. The cost is around £15 for 2. I’m in the process of seeing if a friends laser etcher will etch the aluminium. I’m also going to try spraying the ally black and etching the paint. I’ll order once I find a solution to marking the ally. Any suggestions welcome!
This place will make them.
Al
Abcan That’s really interesting.
Will they cut any shape? Given the angles of the machine, there could be a shape that matches better?
Also, have you thought about anodizing the aluminium? Various videos on YouTube, looks relatively simple.
I’d be interested in exploring further with you.
I’m sure they can cut almost any shape. I’m thinking of not making a feature of the metal by painting it black (I have a black minima) if the etching work’s through the paint it’ll be very similar to how ACS are etching the case on the new ones. The company can also cut in 2mm stainless but that would need polishing to give a decent finish (which is easily done in my experience).
Abstracted what the actual fcuk how does that even happen
Decent De1pro v1.45 - Niche Duo - Niche Zero - Decent is the best machine ever made -