So based on some inspiration from @"tompoland"#121 and a few minor annoyances with it, I've had a play with my niche today. The goals are as follows: * Add an ioniser to the chute to avoid static in the cup * Have controls on the front of the machine instead of the side * A setting to grind by either weight or time, so I can either stop the grind after x grams or x seconds (default setting to stop after 30 seconds) * Possibly a way to vary the motor speed? (I'm not bothered about this, but it's easy to do so why not) The simplest way to do this will be to replace the PCB with a custom one, holding a teensy 4.1 and an HX711 (weight control module) * The bottom wood bit will need remachined to covertly house a scale. I'm terrible at CNC routing so will ask for help on this. * There will be an on/off button, and 2 buttons to set time/weight, as well as a tiny LCD screen which shows settings or the current weight on the scale, or just to tell the current time. - Initially this will just be next to the machine but I could look at integrating it at some point * The new PCB should fit exactly where the old one did, and be switchable. The only functional/noticable difference should be the lack of the switch on the side * I could also add 'shot count/time on' and wireless functionality etc, but they aren't something I'm particularly interested in currently. * I may add some sort of wireless functionality between the board and scale to avoid messy wiring Any ideas/feedback?

If you grind by weight, you must ensure the algorithm caters for clearing out the chamber rather than just stop the motor, otherwise you’ll have retention.

Assuming you’re doing the grind by weight/time as a means of auto-stopping the grinder, there may be some inspiration in the Fellow Ode. It has an auto-stop function which works well, not entirely sure how it detects the absence of beans but could be a nice option.

I despise the auto-stop on the fellow ode. Give me a simple on/off. I don't see the point of grind by weight on a single dose grinder. That would be better left to a grinder with a hopper or a separate bean counter with a hopper. I like the placement of the side switch. To each their own. I greatly like the idea of adding an Ionizer. I will be following just for this.

I like an auto stop, if the beans take say 15 seconds to grind then a 20 second stop would be my choice

Depends If you use the niche for making a big filter brew or espresso could need anywhere from 15s to 45s

With the fellow ode, sometimes the beans do not feed. Then I'm turning the damn thing on multiple times. When it works, it's nice. When it doesn't, it's worse than inconvenient.

Yes, the autostop is the priority. The stop by weight thing is just a bit of fun as I'm redoing the controller anyway. I was initially thinking of scavenging the original switch and using it as a toggle, and hard coding 30s/60 to it. So you set the time by toggle on the side, then simply hit the grind button. Perhaps I should just do this project like that, an added ionizer, autostop, and a single button. (Maybe I could make the niche icon pressable) Autostop is useful for me as I often start the grind and then go off to do something, handle the kettle or hob etc as it works.

The only problem with this method would be that I couldn't display things like runtime or easily change the time. (It'd also be the end of any chance of variable speed.) On the upside it'd make the mod really cheap to do. (Probably talking a tenner or so total and 10 minutes to install the replacement board and chute, button notwithstanding)

The autostop could probably be done without modifying the niche at all. Leave the niche turned on and control the power externally. The trigger for shutoff could be done in several ways. Sensing the drop in current would likely be the most accurate.

> @"Loonster"#p57652 The autostop could probably be done without modifying the niche at all. Leave the niche turned on and control the power externally. The trigger for shutoff could be done in several ways. Sensing the drop in current would likely be the most accurate. The only problem is the grinder needs to run for a while after the beans have ground to clear the chamber…so something with a delay is required….and these circuits do exist.

Simple Niche Modifications

Cuprajake

giampiero

capuchin The fact you can plug in a grinder in a 230V AC socket, does not always means that the motor is AC. Anyway you already got many confirmation that the Niche Zero motor is DC.

dfk41

capuchin You do know that Dave effectively designed the Niche Zero? Do you not think he knows better than you and the idiot on Reddit matey? Can I ask how many top selling grinders you have designed, just so I can go and take a look at one.

FadedFrontiers

dfk41 You do know that Dave effectively designed the Niche Zero? Do you not think he knows better than you and the idiot on Reddit matey? Can I ask how many top selling grinders you have designed, just so I can go and take a look at one.

No need to attack the guy, correcting him his enough - he clearly didn’t know 👍

DavecUK

dfk41 You do know that Dave effectively designed the Niche Zero?

No, I helped with testing and suggested some mods to the Zero…but I do have a good appreciation of how it works, and suggested a component or two to be added to the circuit board.

Waitforme

I thought the review linked on Reddit was very positive, he said the build quality was very good and that it doesn’t come much better.

I think his only gripe was the dozing cup which he didn’t like - a very minor issue.

dfk41

FadedFrontiers Well he does now!

Gagaryn

It’s a brushed permanent magnet DC motor, designed to run from crudely rectified mains AC - no need for smoothing or speed control which explains why the board is as it is.
Lots of advantages to using this type of motor and very few disadvantages - they are cheap, easily procured in the exact specifications that are required and start up quickly with full torque - minimal ramping. They will be using different motors specified to regional electricity supplies.
Brushless might have been better but I presume Niche in their wisdom have decided that the brushes will last the life of the grinder - and they are not impossible to swap over as a supplied part if and when they fail.

capuchin

Gagaryn Aye thanks, found the datasheet and got there in the end. I assume the last bit is a cost thing. The standout feature of this one seems to be its relative size although that does come with the need for more gearing caveat. I’ll leave datasheet and supplier here for completeness.

capuchin

The way people attack others here for perceived slights is astounding. Given that being an AC or DC motor means nothing to you; it’s the same thing, it’s a weird hill to fight on. It’s an electronics discussion relevant to understanding how it works and modification, and makes no difference in everyday use. Yet there are 3-4 replies jumping in excitedly to a conversation not relevant to them, and that they know nothing about and haven’t participated in thus far.

I’ve found the datasheet now, and if Dave wanted to clarify he could easily give the datasheet and the datasheet for the gearbox from chiaphua. I’m sure he didn’t need the sycophantic stuff in any event.

To conclude: It is a dc motor, but weirdly labeled. The HZ value doesn’t belong there at all as DC doesn’t oscillate. The reason for the extra large resistor and huge capacitor is because the bridge would rectify too high, so it needs toned down.

dfk41

capuchin The way people attack others here for perceived slights is astounding.

I did not attack anybody, so stop creating a false narrative. You might not like the fact that I corrected you….get over it. You come onto the forum announcing your views like the resident expert……when you stick your head above the parapet etc

Gagaryn

capuchin The HZ value doesn’t belong there at all as DC doesn’t oscillate. The reason for the extra large resistor and huge capacitor is because the bridge would rectify too high, so it needs toned down.

The Hz value is important because due to the crude rectification the motor effectively runs on ‘pulsed’ DC - there is no smoothing. The big cap is an X2 that is simply there for noise suppression.

Cuprajake

i was merely supplying you the pics i had, to help

the ‘wow’ was the fact you were kinda arguing with the guy that helped to design it, fwiw i dont think its that motor above, im not really sure if i can say more, so i wont,

capuchin

Cuprajake Niche have confirmed that’s the correct motor. Thank you for the pics of yours!

Gagaryn more for brush arcing from the rectification I’d have thought. The ceramic labeled VR2 would/could be for noise suppression?

dfk41 Nope, you added and corrected nothing.

Cuprajake

that motor is from an old second hand white niche i bought a year or so ago, no ideal on age, the the brush dust blew out.

HarveyMushman

Really sad how much arguing and fairly pointed comments are made on this forum. Seems like every thread I open there a disagreement of done sort somewhere. It’s great that everyone is so knowledgeable but I can see how it could be seen as hostile.

I think there’s a risk of alienating really great people if it hasn’t happened already.

Cuprajake

HarveyMushman thats what the hide/ignore button is for, i cant read half of this thread, infact forum as i hide quite a few users,

Gagaryn

HarveyMushman Really sad how much arguing and fairly pointed comments are made on this forum. Seems like every thread I open there a disagreement of done sort somewhere. It’s great that everyone is so knowledgeable but I can see how it could be seen as hostile.

I think there’s a risk of alienating really great people if it hasn’t happened already.

It’s the world’s friendliest coffee forum I’m told. That seems to be reliant on visitors respecting the “hierarchy of knowledge” and refraining from independent thought. If you obey those unwritten rules, all is fine. Break them at your peril - the resident internet hard man doesn’t take much provocation to swing his handbag. :-)

tompoland

HarveyMushman

It’s really only one repeat offender.

His conduct has brought down the overall tone of this forum but he seems to be a protected species. He would not get away with his personal insults on other forums and evidence of that is to be found in his suspension or banishment from multiple forums / YT channels.

The ‘ignore’ feature is your friend Harvey.

If you find someone who is repeatedly denigrating others, just click that person’s profile and you’ll find the ignore button.

The whole forum experience has become much more enjoyable since I clicked on it. I don’t have to read his personal attacks on people and if he decides to lash out again when he reads this post, I won’t even see it.

(No problem with disagreements but no need to insult people personally.)

capuchin

Gagaryn It’s really frustrating. An echo chamber helps nobody.

@Cuprajake You shouldn’t have to do this though. If people can’t contribute positively and civilly in a friendly and respectful tone, why are they here?

Gagaryn

capuchin more for brush arcing from the rectification I’d have thought. The ceramic labeled VR2 would/could be for noise suppression?

No - VR2 is a MOV - a metal oxide varistor placed where it is to provide protection against power surges. This along with the X2 cap are standard components for power inlet protection. If you are modding, leave them in place.

DavecUK

Gagaryn No - VR2 is a MOV - a metal oxide varistor placed where it is to provide protection against power surges. This along with the X2 cap are standard components for power inlet protection. If you are modding, leave them in place.

I had the MOV added…for other reasons as well.

« Previous Page Next Page »