Lawn, garden and DIY cupboards projects - What are you guys doing ?

With regard to routers I would agree for most work you do not need a. ½′' router, they are heavy and cumbersome.

They come into their own when jointing worktops with a jig, for general projects routers with 8 and 10 mm collets are fine, soft start and variable speed are beneficial.

I have a Makita biscuit jointer, the head /face plate are very adjustable to suit all manner of work .

Think about the projects you wish to do and prioritise the use for the tools you buy.

Check the suitability of the blade for your saw, the general purpose one that comes with the saw is just that, if you are cutting sheet material and more teeth are beneficial, ripping softwood less teeth / bigger gullets are better.

Compost bin project. Will finish over Easter.

LMSC What do guys do for the extractor? They cost the same, if not more

I didn’t bother. Usually I try to cut outside, or hook up to the old dyson vac

LMSC What do guys do for the extractor? They cost the same, if not more.

If cutting outside, still use decent protection - I recommend the JSP Force 8. Sheet material especially is bloody horrible - don’t want it in your lungs.

Extraction helps a lot with routing in terms of seeing what’s going on.

If you don’t need power pass-through I’d recommend CamVac.

If you want another DIY project you could mock up a master/slave using the Kemo module - decent rating - for convenience.

One more recommendation for Festool - not just the plunge saw, but the OF1400 router. I haven’t used the Bosch (which by all accounts is excellent too), but I found an open-box OF1400 on eBay at a great price, and I haven’t looked back. It’s an excellent tool, and as long as it’s connected to a shop vac (not the Festool mortgage-requiring type) there is practically no dust, even when working on MDF.

On the ¼ vs. ½″ collet, I would go diametrically (!) opposite - unless you are planning to use the router only as a trim router. You can fit a ¼″ collet on a ½″ capable router body, but you can’t do the reverse, and any shaping/moulding capability is severely restricted if you only have ¼″ bits.

LMSC Take a look at Axminster Tools to view variety of makes / models.

LMSC We have a gardena 6 zones digital timer controlled irrigation along with 6 zones distributor. At the moment, We are using only one; plan to use 3 more of these for the lawn, front and split the watering for plants. We will still have 2 spares. 😊

What is your pressure like? You might find if you want to run 2 pop ups at the same time, that you would need larger supply hose than this would take, or you would have to run 2 hoses all the way from this to each pop up, does depend a bit on size of garden and how easy it is to hide them. At the very least you will be burying pipe for the pop ups and the tree irrigation and you will need to make sure the hose you use and connectors are up to the job. I wouldn’t want to bury a normal garden hose and click connector as I know how often they leak above the ground as bits become loose. Hopefully you will be able to connect MDPE supply pipe to this controller.

If not, you will be looking at solenoid valves (all easy to do) and a 12v controller (and might be able to help you out there).

@LMSC You may have done this already, but I highly recommend a programme of removing the thatch from your lawn(s) on a regular basis, I started doing this two years ago on a very tired, run-down lawn and it makes a world of difference. Use an electric powered “scarifier” rather than a manual scarifying rake. The lawn will look pretty roughed up to begin with but will soon recover.

LMSC This is absolutely beautiful. What a grand design and development! Well done. Retaining walls and slabs will be very expensive! Let me think about it as we plan to extend the back garden enhancement this season and aim to wrap up everything next, if we can’t finish this season. It’s mostly a one-man job. It takes time, unfortunately. 😊

Thanks. Those pictures were taken when I had finished the main work. The bricks and pieces of wood on the beds were to stop the local felines doing their business and had to stay unti I managed to find a way using slightly raised chicken wire to stop them and until plants were established. As I said that was years ago and now it all needs replacing. Also, virtually every year I treated the wood too which was a major job and not cheap, which you don’t need to do with brickwork and slabs.

I’m going to price up both ways and if brickwork and slabs comes close to the cost of wood either more or less, I’m going for the brickwork… maintenance free.

Pompeyexile 30 years for an “all wood” work of that type and extent is fantastically good durability.

Perhaps a mad idea, but - depending on what is rotting, and how much - would recycling most of the current “healthy” decking and adding new (similar or deliberately dissimilar) decking “around the edges” be feasible? It may be cheaper than replacing everything…